Case Studies

A Collection of the Odd, Unusual and Interesting Found While Servicing Our Client Vehicles.

Originally intended as a showcase for customers of our workshop and staff’s abilities, this page has evolved in an interesting and informative teaching tool, and one of the most popular pages on our site!

By nature, these are rather extreme examples of failures, and not what we typically find during service. Our goal at Atlantic Motorcar is to prevent these from happening to you and your car. But rest assured, if we can fix these challenges, regular maintenance is breeze!

We like to call this our “YES WE CAN!” page. You can also view many of these concerns on our Facebook page. Each photo can be enlarged by clicking on it.

Tire Pressure Warning Light (TPMS) Light Coming On in Cold Weather? Here’s Why

Case Studies
TPMS Light On

TPMS Light Coming On in Cold Weather? Here’s Why!
If your TPMS (tire pressure monitoring system) warning light goes on during a cold snap, it may not mean your tire has a leak.

Fun Fact
Tire pressure can decrease about 1 PSI (pound per square inch) for every 10 degrees the temperature drops. It’s not that more air is escaping your tires, but rather the air inside the tire condenses, taking up less space when it’s cold. It’s similar to how a cake, just out of the oven, flattens out a bit as it cools.

Tires also lose about 1 PSI per month just from seepage of air around the edge of the rim and through the tread itself. These two factors combined can cause the air pressure in a tire to go 25 percent below the recommended fill pressure. This is what triggers the sensing transmitters inside your tires to illuminate your TPMS dash light. Whenever your TPMS light comes on, have your air checked and bring your tires up to the proper pressure.

Winter Tire Pressure
Temperature changes outside affect your tire pressure. If it gets up to 45 degrees by day and drops to 15 degrees at night, your tire pressure will vary 3 PSI, not counting normal air loss. This is why it’s not unusual to have the low-pressure indicator light go on first thing in the morning, since it’s usually coldest overnight. The light may shut off on its own after you drive 20 minutes or so, as the air in your tires warms and expands and proper inflation level stabilizes.

Regardless, you should get your air checked right away. The TPMS light means your tires are at least 25 percent below the proper air pressure. This is a safety risk, especially if you’re carrying a load close to your vehicle’s max capacity. There’s a greater chance of tire failure, compromised handling and increased wear and tear on your tires. Your gas mileage could also suffer. When you top off your tires, the TPMS light will go off as the tire regains the proper pressure. Note: If the warning light is flashing, this is a problem with the vehicle’s TPMS system, not your tires, and you should take your car to the shop.

One More Reason Your TPMS Light May Go On
Your TPMS light may flash if your vehicle’s onboard computer can’t detect the sensor because you’re using a spare tire. They typically don’t have TPMS sensors.

How to Get Winter Tire Pressure Right
Once a month, have your pressure checked when the tires are cold (meaning the car is parked outside and hasn’t been driven in four hours) and inflate them to what’s indicated on your placard located on the inside of your car door.
For more information regarding TPMS with your vehicle, please review your owner’s manual.

How We Can Help You
As Maine’s leading European and Japanese auto specialists, we provide expert-quality services at a fair rate than nearby dealerships and specialty shops. If you’re experiencing any of the above-mentioned symptoms in your own Volvo, please call us right away, we can usually see your car the same day! At Atlantic Motorcar we’ve developed some very specific procedures and tooling, combined with our expert technicians, to make this otherwise onerous repair a snap.

Finally
Questions, or if we can be of help in any way with service on your Acura Audi, BMW, Honda, Infiniti, Lexus, Mercedes, Mini Cooper, Toyota, Volvo, VW or other European (and now Japanese) import, please contact us. Our team of Service Specialists is here to help, for even the newest autos! (207) 882-9969.

Knowing, not just “doing”, that’s the Atlantic Motorcar Center way of life.
Thanks!

Warmly,
The Atlantic Motorcar Center Service Team

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Mercedes Brake Line Repair – Rust Damage

Case Studies

Mercedes Brake Line Repair – Rust Damage
If you look at this late model Mercedes, you’d think that it hardly would have a problem with rusted brake lines, a safety issue that has afflicted domestic cars for decades, but until recently, was quite rarely seen on European autos.

Why This Happened
We’ve seen the transition from the older bonded phosphate brake lines used on the European cars that never rusted, to painted lines. We’ve found that the painted lines are much more susceptible to cracking the coating and then rusting the exposed metal.

But knowing where to look is the key, Justin, one of our highly skilled techs, removed the plastic cover under the floor pan and found this. Maybe just a few stops left, and then….no brake pedal. Not a good way to start off your morning.

But Wait, There’s More
But we have a solution, we fabricate replacement brake lines out of a nickel alloy brake line that will likely outlast the life of the car!

Value
At Atlantic Motorcar, we’re all about providing our customers not only Great Service but also Value. We understand that “An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure.” (my mom would be proud I remembered that.), in other words, preventing, or catching problems like these brake lines early, can save you more than just money.

Finally
Questions, or if we can be of help in any way with service on your Audi, BMW, Mercedes, Mini Cooper or other European (and now Japanese) import, please contact us. Our team of Service Specialists are here to help, for even the newest autos! (207) 882-9969.

Knowing, not just “doing”, that’s the Atlantic Motorcar Center way of life.
Thanks!

Warmly,
The Atlantic Motorcar Center Service Team

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Batteries – The Care and Feeding Of The Power Source Of Your Car

Case Studies

The Care and Feeding Of The Power Source Of Your Car
Though it is now changing with the advent of newer vehicles, the vast majority of car batteries currently on the road are still part of the lead-acid battery group. These batteries constitute six galvanic cells – see the ‘Anatomy of a car battery’ diagram for details – laid out in series. Each cell delivers 2.1 volts of electromotive force that, when combined, produce the common 12.6-volt automotive battery (commonly advertised as 12-volt). One of these 12-volt batteries is powerful enough to keep a car’s systems running for years with the proper care, and larger diesel vehicles may employ two.

Construction
Each galvanic cell consists of a series of lead and lead dioxide plates submerged in an electrolyte solution – a mix of sulphuric acid (35 percent) and water (65 percent). This acidic bath triggers a reaction with the lead dioxide plate (the positive electrode), which produces ions and lead sulfate. These sulphuric ions then react with the adjacent lead plates (the negative electrode) to produce hydrogen ions and lead sulfate.

This chemical reaction, in turn, generates electrons that can flow out via conductive terminals as electricity to power essential functions. The reaction is not permanent, with the lead sulfate reforming into lead dioxide and lead when the battery is recharged. Over time, the battery’s efficiency will deplete, with most working optimally for about 3-4 years.

Why Does A Battery “Die”?
A battery is just an ongoing chemical reaction under the hood or in the trunk of our cars. The interaction of sulfuric acid with the surface area of the lead plates is at the heart of a battery’s ability to create, store, and release energy. Basically, a battery can store and supply energy if enough of the active plate material is available to allow an energy transfer to occur naturally. Batteries don’t give up the ghost or fail without warning. Generally, they will be showing plenty of signs and symptoms before failure. Those signs might be a slow cranking over of the engine, hesitation to start, a clicking noise before starting, and warnings on the dash about the battery state or condition of some newer cars.

Cold Weather
Batteries are usually the first to suffer from the cold—losing 35% of their strength at 30° F and 60% at 0° F. Temperature also affects charge and discharge rates. A cold battery will charge and self-discharge slower than a warm battery, but will also exhibit lower capacity. When it’s cold outside, sulfating buildup in combination with the slow down of the chemical reaction within the battery will rob the battery’s ability to provide operational power and is only exaggerated as vehicle fluids thicken due to the cold. This cold condition causes even more available power and capability to be taken from the battery to start the vehicle, so the battery has to work harder than normal to provide additional power demanded by the vehicle and, as a result, realizes a further reduction in voltage, causing a faster buildup of sulfates on the lead plates.

A Long Life
In theory, batteries should last many years, but they usually don’t because of a series of detrimental problems caused by “excessive sulfating buildup” that leads to premature battery failure. It can take up to twice as much current during cold temperatures to start a vehicle as under normal conditions. A poorly maintained battery just doesn’t stand a chance. Extremes of hot and cold can also take their toll on a battery.

Also, keep in mind that a battery that is allowed to remain in a discharged state for an extended period of time, creates high levels of plate sulfating that have a lasting effect on the battery’s capacity. In other words, a dead or deeply discharged battery rarely bounces back to its full potential and will always have reduced capacity, even if it is relatively new. This is why we always recommend some sort of battery tender, or trickle charger on batteries during periods of extended storage, two or more weeks.

Need More Help?
Please contact us if we can help in any way with service on your Audi, BMW, Land Rover, Mercedes, Mini Cooper, Porsche, or other European imports. Our team of Service Specialists is here to help, for even the newest autos! (207) 882-9969, or you can email our Service Team at service@atlanticmotorcar.com.

Knowing, not just “doing,” that’s the Atlantic Motorcar Center way.

Warmly,
The Atlantic Motorcar Center Service Team

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Porsche Panamera – Water Leaks and Clogged Drains – Electrical Issues – Prevention

Case Studies

A Tip From A Friend and Colleague
From our friend Tony Callas, at Callas Porsche Service in California, is this service tip for Panamera owners. Photos are Tony’s, but here at Atlantic Motorcar, we’ve all seen this happen before, esp in the Boxster series. Especially so for cars that are kept outside or frequently washed.

Tony’s Note – ATTENTION PANAMERA OWNERS:
Please clean out your rear hatch water drains. If these two drains get clogged, water will fill up the rear hatch and then leak water into the battery (electronics) area, which will cause all sorts of havoc and get super costly!

AMC – A Word About Water Drains On Cars
Drains aren’t just for bathtubs or the kitchen sink; they also exist in your car to drain away from the effects of rain, ice, and snow. Yet, they’re one of the most neglected of service items. Often considered only when it’s too late.

The Problem
If your car has persistent condensation in colder weather and damp mildew smell, chances are that the foam pads in the footwells and on the floor behind the seats are saturated with water. A cursory check will confirm this for you: have a feel around the join of the floor carpet and rear carpet behind the seats – press down on the floor carpet, and be sure to check the trunk (if your Porsche is equipped with one. If you see, feel or hear water squelching, then you’re carrying water down there.

There is no quick fix to this one: forget about gel pads, hairdryers, heaters, etc. The seats have to come out, various bits of the trim removed, the carpet lifted. You will see 2 thick foam pads attached to the carpet, as highlighted in red in the picture. The pads sit in “sumps” that do not drain anywhere – how clever is that?! Once the foam pads are exposed, that will allow you to squeeze out as much water as possible and then use whatever other means to dry out the pads. The flimsy rear drain trays need to be inspected for any holes that might allow water entry. And we generally run a small dehumidifier inside the car for 2-5 days to thoroughly dry it all out.

That’s just the start, for you now must check the control modules, and there are numerous ones, wiring harnesses, and electrical connectors for the deleterious effects of water entry. Modules really need to be opened up and circuit boards exposed, wiring needs to be checked for insulation integrity, and the small, often very small, electrical connectors checked for any signs of corrosion.

An Ounce Of Prevention
Check, or have checked regularly your vehicle’s cowl, sunroof, and other body drains. This is doubly true if the car lives outdoors, rather than in a garage. You’d be amazed at how quickly the “schmutz” builds up in the drains and lines. Pine needles, leaves, road dirt, pollen, you name it. Cars that live outside should have drains checked, and cleaned as necessary, ideally every quarter. As my mother used to tell me, “An ounce of prevention is worth it pound of cure.”

If you’re an Atlantic Motorcar customer, we’re going to be keeping an eye on this for you (Doesn’t hurt to remind us if you’ve noted any water inside your car, odd, musty smells, etc.). If you’re not, make sure it gets done, kind of like that old bromide about voting, “early and often”. 😉

Our Goal For You and Your Car
Our goal is to save you money, not spend it. This is why each and every car that we service gets a free Courtesy Maintenance Inspection during its first visit. Our goal is to let you know about the small problems before they become big ones. Right now we have a number of customer cars with well over 200,000 miles, and several approaching 300,000! And these cars are not just limping along – most look and drive pretty much the way they came out of the showroom.

Proper maintenance is an investment in the life of your vehicle.
Knowing, not just doing, but actually knowing and understanding the difference, makes all the difference.
Be sure your car is properly loved, our professionals will attend to both you and your car’s needs.
Atlantic Motorcar…Extraordinary Service for Extraordinary Cars, just a phone call away, (207) 882-9969.

Thanks! 

 

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Mini Cooper – Footwell Control Module (FRM) Body Control Module and Water Leaks – Service Info

Case Studies

Mini Cooper – Footwell Control Module (FRM) and Water Leaks
“You have water in your car”
– that very phrase should be enough to strike fear into the heart of most car owners, water is not the friend of today’s highly electronic and computerized cars, and few suffer more from it than the beloved Mini Cooper.

If you have wet carpet on the driver’s side floor, or have a damp mildew smell in your vehicle. Check the driver’s floorboard or carpet for water saturation. The carpet pad on the Generation 2 Mini Cooper is almost 2 inches thick. So a lot of water will hide under the carpet before you will notice a problem. We have discovered water migrating into the vehicle, under the carpet, and then flooding various expensive electronic control modules.

These control modules are located in the driver and passenger side foot well.
Unfortunately, water and electronic components don’t get along. And the water seems to win the battle every time.

Location, Location, Location
The Mini Cooper FRM lives at the bottom of the driver’s side A-pillar behind an interior trim panel. Due to several contributing factors (environmental, certain US States’ wintertime road treatment, vehicle design configuration, and age), over time, the FRM could become susceptible to corrosion from water entry.

There are a number of water leak sources on Mini Coopers, which we mention and discuss in detail below. Suffice it to say that any dampness discovered in the car, on the carpeting, especially on the passenger side front floorboard or carpeting, needs to be investigated and corrected at once.

Signs of Failure
The footwell module failing is a common issue in both BMW and MINI models, its job is to receive signals from sensors across the vehicle, mainly controlling body aspects such as electric windows, air conditioning, heating, lights (interior and exterior) as well as exterior mirrors. FRM failure can be caused by jump starting, incorrect charging, and water infiltration (very common on Minis) damaging the sensitive electrics.

A common sign that there is an issue with the footwell module is that you will notice issues with one of these elements, such as the heater not working, lights not turning off, or not turning on. You may find you have intermittent issues with your windows not opening or closing. You can often find communication problems on the vehicle’s CAN Bus network, especially on the K-Line.

What Happens
For Mini Coopers equipped with a sunroof, after a multi-year period involving large temperature changes, multiple freeze/thaw cycles can cause the vehicle’s sunroof drain hose to become damaged, loosen, and eventually detach from the drain pipe within the A-pillar, which could allow water to enter the vehicle interior.

In certain US states, large amounts of road salt may be utilized during their wintertime road treatment activities. If water were to enter the interior, then in combination with road salt that may be present in the footwell, this could create an electrolyte solution, which causes extensive corrosion on both electrical pin connectors, and the module itself.

Other Mini Cooper Water Leak Sources

  • The passenger side windshield cowl cover seal deteriorated, and not properly sealed to the windshield.
  • Battery cover plastic hatch cover broken or missing.
  • Sunroof drain tubes clogged with debris or disconnected (this occurs with clogs and cycling).
  • Improper windshield installation (not enough adhesive on the glass to seal out water.)

Correction
The usual path of correction consists of diagnosing and correcting the water leakage. The replacement of the FRM, which requires coding and programming of the new unit (the repair is only possible on lightly wet units) and is our first choice for a durable correction, heavily corroded units must always be replaced.

Also, most, if not all of the electrical pin connectors in the wiring harness for the FRM will require replacement, sometimes even the plastic connector housing. Additional work may be needed on the wiring, depending on the level of corrosion present. The cost of this can vary from $1,200 to more than $2,200 depending on the extent of damage found.

An Ounce Of Prevention
Check, or have checked regularly your vehicle’s cowl, sunroof, and other body drains. This is doubly true if the car lives outdoors, rather than in a garage. You’d be amazed at how quickly the “schmutz” builds up in the drains and lines. Pine needles, leaves, road dirt, pollen, you name it.

Cars that live outside should have drains checked, and cleaned as necessary, ideally every quarter. As my mother used to tell me, “An ounce of prevention is worth it pound of cure.”

If you’re an Atlantic Motorcar customer, we’re going to be keeping an eye on this for you (Doesn’t hurt to remind us if you’ve noted any water inside your car, odd, musty smells, etc.). If you’re not, make sure it gets done, kind of like that old bromide about voting, “early and often”. 😉

Our Goal For You and Your Car
Our goal is to save you money, not spend it. This is why each and every car that we service gets a free Courtesy Maintenance Inspection during its first visit. Our goal is to let you know about the small problems before they become big ones. Right now we have a number of customer cars with well over 200,000 miles, and several approaching 300,000! And these cars are not just limping along – most look and drive pretty much the way they came out of the showroom.

Proper maintenance is an investment in the life of your vehicle.
Knowing, not just doing, but actually knowing and understanding the difference, makes all the difference.
Be sure your car is properly loved, our professionals will attend to both you and your car’s needs.
Atlantic Motorcar…Extraordinary Service for Extraordinary Cars, just a phone call away, (207) 882-9969.

Thanks! 

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BMW and Mini Cooper “Emergency Call System Not Available” or “SOS Call Fault”

Case Studies

Warning Message
Many drivers are currently seeing the ‘Emergency call system not available’ or ‘SOS call system failure’ error message on the dashboard of their BMW and Mini Coopers.

What Happens
BMW’s and Mini Coopers telematics module has two power feeds, one from the vehicles main power supply, the other from it’s own backup battery. This means in the event of a serious accident (even with complete power loss) the SOS function can still be used. The Telematic Communication Box (TCB) monitors the emergency battery via an internal self-test after each start-up procedure. The emergency battery does have a limited service life. If the capacity of the emergency battery is exhausted to the extent that placing an emergency call can no longer be guaranteed then this is shown by a Check Control message (Emergency call system fault or SOS call system failure). A fault entry is also stored in the Telematic Communication Box.

A good majority of the time the ‘Emergency call system not available’ or ‘SOS call system failure’ error is a consequence of the telematics emergency call battery deteriorating over time and not providing a significant output to keep the emergency call system powered in the event of power loss. This is simply down to battery degradation of the backup battery over time.

Happening Now
This issue is very quickly becoming a hot topic in the BMW and Mini Cooper world as because it is just a battery degradation issue, though sometimes BMW and and Mini Cooper will not cover this fault outside of their 2 year warranty as they put it down to ‘wear and tear’. Although these batteries are rechargeable, once they reach a lower peak performance they cannot be recovered and a replacement will be required. The batteries overall life will be greatly reduced in colder climates, that is why we see a huge uptake of cars requiring battery replacement during the winter months.

The fault codes that usually accompany a failed battery are:

  • B7F341 Emergency battery: Hardware faulty.
  • B7F343 Emergency battery: Charge interval reached.

Many BMW dealers are quoting astronomical figures to rectify this fault, usually in the region of £600 from a autherised BMW main agent as they state it requires a huge amount of labour as it usually is housed in the roof of the vehicle.

How We Can Help
At Atlantic Motorcar we have made the decision to standardize the charge for telematics battery replacements across the whole BMW and Mini range. This includes the replacement battery, labour and clearing the fault down once the replacement has been completed.

There are of course other reasons as to why you may get this ‘SOS call system failure’ error message such as module faults, water damage etc. We will always confirm that the battery is indeed the issue before replacement. This issue affects all BMW and Mini manufactured after 2014 right up to current production.

Our Goal For You and Your Car
Our goal is to save you money, not spend it. This is why each BMW we service gets a free Courtesy Maintenance Inspection during its first service visit. If additional work, or service is needed, we’ll gladly advise and offer a free estimate!

We aim to let you know about the small problems before they become big. Right now, we have a number of customer cars with well over 200,000 miles and several approaching 300,000! And these cars are not just limping along – most look and drive pretty much the way they came out of the showroom.

Proper maintenance is an investment in the life of your vehicle. Knowing, not just doing, but actually knowing and understanding the difference, makes all the difference.

Be sure your car is properly loved.
Our professionals will attend to both your and your car’s needs.

Atlantic Motorcar…Extraordinary Service for Extraordinary Cars, just a phone call away, (207) 882-9969.

Thanks! 

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BMW N20 Timing Chain Problems: How to Spot Them, How We Correct / Fix Them

Case Studies

BMW N20 Timing Chain Problems: How to Spot Them, How We Correct Them

Your BMW builds on a legacy of precise engineering and proud craftsmanship. It all adds up to a driving experience that sets BMW apart: no one laughs when BMW boasts of making The Ultimate Driving Machines.

But even the best-engineered automobiles have a weakness or two, as some owners of BMW N20 engines know all too well. Issues with the engine’s timing chain have affected that model from the start, and while they were eventually mitigated in later versions of the N20, engines built between 2011 and 2015 are still highly susceptible to timing chain issues. We’ll take a look at what the timing chain does, where it tends to fail in certain N20s, and what BMW owners can do about it.

The BMW N20 Engine in a Nutshell
When BMW introduced the N20 in 2011, it marked the first time the company sold a four-cylinder engine in the North American market since the 1990s. The N20 was intended as a more efficient successor to the six-cylinder N52, introducing a turbocharger to achieve similar performance. While some BMW fans had questions about the seemingly less powerful design, the N20 quickly earned a reputation for its smooth delivery of output specs that reminded drivers quite a bit of the N52.

Along with turbocharging and direct injection, the N20 retained the N52’s variable valve timing in an effort to consistently squeeze every bit of power from four cylinders. The new design’s timing components were under more stress than ever, and in early versions of the N20, that stress often showed.

The BMW N20’s Timing Chain Issues

Timing chains in any engine keep components in sync, from valves to the camshaft. The N20’s timing chain has developed a reputation for premature wear and failure, with consequences ranging from decreased power to outright engine failure. Because the N20 is an interference engine, the valves can theoretically meet the pistons. When that happens, your engine is wrecked…and it can only happen if your N20’s timing chain stops doing its job.

Specific Causes

The most common cause of timing chain issues in the N20, particularly those produced in the engine’s first four years, has to do with the timing chain guide. The guides installed on original N20s were prone to breaking, which introduced slack to the timing chain and prevented it from doing its job.

Less commonly, the N20’s timing chain tensioner can also fail prematurely. This introduces the same problem as a broken timing chain guide: the chain has just a tiny bit more distance to travel, and the engine’s millisecond-precise synchronization is thrown off.

N20 owners can unwittingly contribute to the problem, too. Although the tensioner does not depend on oil pressure to work, operating an N20 on low oil, or waiting too long to perform oil changes, can cause friction that accelerates wear on the chain guide or tensioner.

How to Spot BMW N20 Timing Chain Issues

Timing chain problems are almost never catastrophic right off the bat. Here are the most common symptoms of a failing timing chain: they can be subtle, but they’re worth taking seriously.

Rough idling

Your BMW should idle smoothly, and timing chain issues are a primary cause of hiccups at idle. Over time, the same issues can lead your engine to misfire—a more pronounced symptom of the same problem. In this case, you should see one or more fault codes; we’ll cover those toward the end of this article.

Rattling noises or whining

A rattling noise from the front of your engine can be a sign of a slack timing chain. Whining can, too. Although many drivers associate whining sounds with worn serpentine belts, a system that’s out of sync can cause the same telltale slippage and noise. If you notice a whine at around 4,000 RPM, you should probably start by checking your timing chain.

Reduced power

Any automobile engine can suffer from reduced performance for a variety of reasons. Timing chain issues are just one of those, and they often show up at first as reduced acceleration. You might also experience a progressive loss of power at higher speeds, though performance issues related to the timing chain are typically accompanied by rough idling or odd noises.

Fault lights and codes

Don’t ignore your fault lights. If the engine management system has detected a problem with your timing chain, it may throw you a check engine light warning and record a set of fault codes. We’ve included a list of fault codes at the end of this article to help you pinpoint the issue, but the important thing is to get your BMW to the shop as soon as you see a fault light.

What to Do About BMW N20 Timing Chain Problems

Inspection and Analysis

As soon as you notice a problem with your N20 engine’s timing chain, you should have your car inspected by an experienced BMW specialist. A shop that’s seen its share of BMWs will start by testing the timing chain’s tension and examining its tensioner and guides before looking at other components that might be involved.

To get a quick sense of how much slack is in your timing chain, you can examine it yourself with a clean metal pick by removing the oil cap. The timing chain guides are also easily visible at this point, though inexperienced DIYers might not be able to tell a worn guide from a fresh one. None of this initial inspection takes the place of a thorough examination by an experienced mechanic.

Replacing the Timing Chain

If problems with the guides or tensioner have caused the timing chain to wear down, the prudent way forward is to replace the chain, guides, and tensioner, along with associated sprockets and other ancillary components. This is a job for professionals: the engine will need to be partially disassembled in a particular sequence, and it is all but impossible to efficiently replace the timing chain without specialty equipment.

Off-brand oil filters and other common parts can work just fine, but your timing chain is more finicky. We strongly recommend using a genuine BMW chain or an OEM alternative from an established manufacturer.

N20 Preventive Maintenance

If your N20 was produced before 2016, the best preventive maintenance is probably to have its timing chain replaced, whether or not you’ve experienced problems. N20s manufactured after 2015 have a much better track record in this regard. In any case, regular oil changes using high-quality oil and filters are the best way to avoid the catastrophic problems that a worn timing chain can cause.

Diagnostic Codes for Curious BMW N20 Owners

If you own a diagnostic code scanner, or know how to read the codes recorded by your BMW, you can get a good amount of information about your suspected timing chain issue. Two codes in particular frequently point to the timing chain problems common to the N20.

131501: Slack timing chain

The full version of fault code 131501 officially reads “VANOS, intake, starting from cold: Non-adjustable.” In plain English, this means that VANOS—BMW’s variable valve timing system—is suffering from a slack or otherwise malfunctioning timing chain.

120408: Valvetronic system

BMW’s Valvetronic system controls the engine’s intake valve lift, fine-tuning it for better fuel efficiency, reduced emissions, and better performance overall. Fault code 120408 indicates an internal problem with the Valvetronic system, which includes problems associated with a slack timing chain.

Looking To Repair Your BMW N20 Timing Chain in Maine?

If anything in this article reminds you of your N20-powered BMW, we hope you’ll give the Atlantic Motorcar team a call. Aside from its timing chain issues, we really like the N20, and we’ve worked on plenty over the years. We’d love to help you experience your BMW in its full glory, and to keep you on the road for years to come.

Our Goal For You and Your Car

Our goal is to save you money, not spend it. This is why each BMW we service gets a free Courtesy Maintenance Inspection during its first service visit. If additional work, or service is needed, we’ll gladly advise and offer a free estimate!

We aim to let you know about the small problems before they become big. Right now, we have a number of customer cars with well over 200,000 miles and several approaching 300,000! And these cars are not just limping along – most look and drive pretty much the way they came out of the showroom.

Proper maintenance is an investment in the life of your vehicle.
Knowing, not just doing, but actually knowing and understanding the difference, makes all the difference.

Be sure your car is properly loved.
Our professionals will attend to both your and your car’s needs.

Atlantic Motorcar…Extraordinary Service for Extraordinary Cars, just a phone call away, (207) 882-9969.

Thanks! 

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Mercedes-Benz Radio Code: How Can I Obtain It And Enter It?

Case Studies

Mercedes-Benz Radio Code: How Can I Obtain It And Enter It?

When and why will you need your Mercedes-Benz radio code? Perhaps your battery went flat on a cold winter’s night, and you had to jump-start the vehicle. Maybe the battery was disconnected during routine service, or maybe that service involved replacing the battery. In any case, you turn on your vehicle and are met with an unpleasant surprise — the radio no longer works. Why is this happening? How can you get your tunes back? It’s nothing to worry about and is a fairly common issue. It’s one that’s straightforward to fix yourself too.

This can also be referred to as the Mercedes-Benz anti-theft radio code. As the name suggests, it’s a measure put into place at the factory to prevent theft. It’s rather effective, as when a radio equipped with this feature loses power, it will need you to enter a specific code to function — if you’re not the rightful owner, that will be a tough task. Regardless, let’s get your radio working again. Read on and see all the ways you can find your Mercedes-Benz radio code and how to regain radio function by entering it.

Mercedes-Benz Radio Code Retrieval Methods

You’ve got a few options to get your radio working like it should in this situation. Whether it’s a Mercedes-Benz E-Class for sale or any other Mercedes-Benz vehicle, the process will likely be the same. So, here are the methods at your disposal to find your radio code:

Mercedes-Benz Radio Code From Owner’s Manual

The simplest solution of them all, your owner’s manual is home to comprehensive details on all functions of your vehicle. It also will contain your Mercedes-Benz E-class radio code and the same for most other vehicles. Your owner’s manual will be located in your glovebox. The specific location you can find the code in will vary. But, as a guideline, check for it in the sections covering “radio,” “security,” or “stereo.” If it’s not there, it may be located in the first or last few pages in your owner’s manual.

As well, your radio code may be written down on a business-card-sized piece of paper located within the owner’s manual. When you drive home vehicles like a new Mercedes-Benz A-Class for sale, familiarize yourself with the owner’s manual — just in case.

Mercedes-Benz Radio Code from VIN number

Say you’ve lost your owner’s manual, or the Mercedes-Benz C-class radio code isn’t inside it. The next way to go about retrieving it is to find and write down your Vehicle Identification Number (VIN). It should either be on a tag you’ll find as you open the driver’s door or under the windshield on the far edge of your dashboard. Once you’ve found it, contact an authorized Mercedes-Benz dealer, or the Mercedes-Benz Customer Assistance Center. As an alternative, we can also obtain your radio code for a fee of $35.

Once you’ve given your VIN and proof of vehicle ownership, you’ll be given the Mercedes-Benz radio code specific to your vehicle.

Visit a Service Center – Call Us First

Let’s say none of the above options work to get your Mercedes-Benz radio code. You aren’t out of luck. You can bring your vehicle into an Mercedes-Benz service center like ours for one of two solutions. The first is a more thorough check of radio code databases using the VIN, and the second is a surefire solution. It involves removing the radio, as a sticker often placed on its back will contain information, including a specific serial number for the radio. The most accurate Mercedes-Benz radio code can be found by entering this serial number into our system.

Mercedes-Benz Radio Code Entry

It’s time for a radio reset; Mercedes-Benz radio code entry is a straightforward process. So, with your radio code in hand, step inside your vehicle. Specific radio layouts will vary greatly, but for most Mercedes-Benz vehicles, the process is as follows:

Turn the vehicle to accessory power (first key position), or turn it on and start the engine. Now turn on the radio. On the radio display, you will either see words along the lines of “enter radio code,” or simply the word “CODE” appears with a flashing “C.”

Once you see this, one of two Mercedes-Benz radio code entry methods will be required. On older models, turn the right-side knob (typically the radio tuning knob) until the word “CODE” disappears to reveal a flashing “1” with four dashes following it. Turn the knob to change the number, and press it once it is the correct one to move on to the next. Repeat the process until all numbers are entered, then press and hold the knob until the code entry screen disappears — if the code was correct, the radio function should be regained.

For newer models with numbered buttons for the radio, the process is even more straightforward. You’ll see a similar “CODE” or “enter radio code” appear as you turn on the radio. Next, press the first button corresponding to the numbers in your Mercedes-Benz A-class radio code (e.g., press “1” if the first number in the code is one). Do the same for the entire code, then press the button that lines up with “OK.” If the code is correct, regular radio function will be regained. Other systems may vary, but the process will be very similar overall.

Mercedes-Benz Service and More

So there you have it, we hope your Mercedes-Benz radio is working as intended again. As a Mercedes-Benz specialist, we’re passionate about these luxury vehicles and all they offer. From a top-notch service center, we put our all into giving you customer service with a smile. Contact us if your radio is still giving you issues; if not, enjoy the ride and your tunes.

Frequently Asked Questions:

What is a radio code?

A radio code is an anti-theft feature built into your Mercedes-Benz radio. If someone were to steal your vehicle’s radio, power would be disconnected from it. In order to prevent someone from operating the radio if stolen, a code must be entered after the radio loses power. If power was lost due to a disconnected or dead battery, you would need to enter this code to regain radio function.

Do Mercedes-Benz vehicles have a radio code?

Yes, the radio in many Mercedes-Benz vehicles will have a code put into place as an anti-theft measure to prevent it from being used if stolen. This Mercedes-Benz radio code will typically be a five-digit sequence of numbers. It can be found in your owner’s manual or by contacting an authorized Mercedes-Benz dealership with your VIN and proof of vehicle ownership.

How can I retrieve my lost Mercedes-Benz radio code?

There are a couple of methods to retrieve your Mercedes-Benz radio code. The first is by checking your owner’s manual; it may be in the “radio,” “security,” or “stereo” sections. If not, it will either be in the first or last few pages of the manual or on a small card located within. Contact the Mercedes-Benz Customer Assistance Center or an authorized Mercedes-Benz dealership with your VIN and proof of ownership to retrieve the code if it’s not in your owner’s manual.

How do I enter the radio code on my Mercedes-Benz?

To enter your Mercedes-Benz radio code, one of two methods will be required. For older models, turning the right-side knob (typically for radio tuning) will bring you to the code entry screen, and then turning it will change the number. Press the knob in to move on to the next number, then press and hold it to confirm the code. On models with numbered buttons, simply press the buttons that correspond to the digits of the code, then press “OK.”

How can I reset the radio code on a Mercedes-Benz?

To reset your Mercedes-Benz radio code, you will need to retrieve a corresponding radio code. To do this, either check your owner’s manual or contact an authorized Mercedes-Benz dealership with your VIN and proof of ownership. From there, enter the code into your radio, and it should successfully be reset.

Can I obtain my Mercedes-Benz radio code from the VIN number?

Yes. Using your VIN is one way to obtain your Mercedes-Benz radio code. To do so, you will need to find the VIN, then contact an authorized Mercedes-Benz dealership or the Mercedes-Benz Customer Assistance Center with it and proof of ownership. You will then be given your Mercedes-Benz radio code.

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Mercedes Active Blind Spot Assist – Care and Feeding – Problems, Repair, Service and Correction

Case Studies

What Is Mercedes Active Blind Spot Assist?
There’s a good reason that the obstructed area of vision over your shoulder is known as the “blind spot.” Both vehicles and other obstacles can hide in this area of your vision, creating the potential for a collision or other accident if unnoticed.

How Does It Work?
Active Blind Spot Assist
uses sensors and cameras to constantly monitor an area of up to 10 feet behind and immediately adjacent to your vehicle. If a vehicle is detected within the blind spot area, a red triangle warning indicator appears in the corresponding exterior side mirror. It’s important to remember that Active Blind Spot Assist is active at speeds above 18 MPH.

Should you fail to notice this visual warning in your mirror and signal for a lane change, the warning light will begin to flash, and an audible alert will sound. Finally, if you continue to attempt the lane change despite the warnings, Active Blind Spot Assist can (in certain models) apply corrective steering actions to keep you safely in your intended lane.

How Does It Fail?
The Mercedes Benz blind spot assist feature uses radar sensors to detect other objects or vehicles alongside and behind your car. The feature aims to alert drivers when it is and isn’t safe to change lanes by assisting them in detecting obstructions in blind spot areas. It is not uncommon to get a blind-spot assist that has been deactivated warning on the dashboard.

In addition to the message on the instrument cluster, you may also notice the yellow triangle on the side mirror staying on. If you are expecting Blind Spot Assist problems, find a safe location where you can stop and restart the vehicle.

Typically, this happens during heavy rain, and these problems resolve shortly when the environmental circumstances change. The most common causes that trigger resettable and temporaryBlind Spot Assist Unavailable” are:

  • Heavy rain
  • Inclement weather, including snow and fog
  • Extremely high temperatures
  • The radar sensors in the rear bumper are dirty
  • Driving too close to lane crash barriers or dividers
  • Driving next to a truck for an extended period

However, not all Blind Spot Assist problems are temporary or resolved on their own. On older vehicles, especially those operating in the climate of Maine and New England, where environmental weather conditions can be extreme, damage to the electronics of the Active Blind Spot Assist can actually occur. In the next paragraph, we’ll discuss the system’s weak points and common failures and what you can do to prevent or mitigate those problems.

Worse Case
Unfortunately, these sensors don’t live in the most hospitable of areas; they are found tucked under the rear bumpers, subject to water, snow, salt, and other debris from the road. It doesn’t take long, perhaps 3-5 years, before some of that water finds its way into the radar units (due in no small part to their location) under the bumpers and the electrical wiring harnesses. Water is vehicle electronics’ biggest enemy, and add to the corrosive effects of road salt, and you’ve got a rather toxic brew.

Internal Corrosion In the Mercedes Active Blind Spot Assist Modules

If water or corrosion is found in the sensor or the wiring harness, the best and safest course of action is to replace the blind spot assist sensors located behind the rear bumper. When the blind spot radar sensors in the rear bumper fail, the turn signals may also stop working, wipers can also be affected.

If you are getting a blind spot inoperative on your dashboard every time it rains, water may have entered the radar sensors, triggering the message on the dashboard. Sometimes, when the blind spot assist stops working, the wiper blades may also stop functioning. If you are experiencing these two problems, check the fuse for the wiper blades. Most likely, the fuse has blown. Water entering these sensors can blow the wiper fuse because the same circuit protects them; other problems relating to engine starting and running can also occur, which is why Active Blind Spot faults should be resolved as soon as possible.

Correction
At Atlantic Motorcar, for client satisfaction, due to the high failure rate of these modules and connectors from water, we take some additional steps to mitigate water entry into the modules and the wiring harness, using special weatherproof connectors, heat shrink tubing, and dielectric electronic grease. We recommend that these connections be checked yearly on A or B Maintenances to ensure they remain weather-tight. We do NOT recommend you place the modules inside plastic bags, as is sometimes mentioned. These bags invariably leak, fill with water, and cause condensation and water entry problems much quicker.

Proper Repair
The proper correction involves replacing one or both (depending on condition, most often replaced in pairs) rear blind spot assist sensor/radar units with OEM Mercedes parts. Replacement of the wiring harness with factory parts, sealing wire splices with special weather pack connectors, and heat shrink tubing to prevent water entry. Use special dielectric electronic grease to seal the multi-pin connectors on the radar units to the wiring harness seal.

Verification: Using Mercedes XENTRY Diagnostic Computer, erase fault codes stored, code and program for the new modules, teach in, and update software as needed for the vehicle. Test and verify the correction of faults and proper operation of new modules.

Our Goal For You and Your Car
Our goal is to save you money, not spend it. This is why each car we service gets a free Courtesy Maintenance Inspection during its first service visit. If additional work or service is needed, we’ll gladly advise you and offer a free estimate!

We aim to inform you about the minor problems before they become big. Right now, we have a number of customer cars with well over 200,000 miles and several approaching 300,000! And these cars are not just limping along – most look and drive pretty much the way they came out of the showroom.

Proper maintenance is an investment in the life of your vehicle.
Knowing, not just doing, but actually knowing and understanding the difference makes all the difference.

Be sure your car is properly loved.
Our professionals will attend to both your and your car’s needs.

Atlantic Motorcar…Extraordinary Service for Extraordinary Cars is just a phone call away: (207) 882-9969.

Thanks! 

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BMW Remote Key Batteries – Simple Answers and Replacement Procedures

Case Studies
BMW Rectangle Key

BMW Remote Key Batteries – Simple Answers and Replacement Procedures
BMW currently uses about three different shaped key remotes. The service process for each is different, as we have outlined below.
For ease of identification, we have grouped these into three forms: rectangle, slant, and diamond. You’ll find additional details and procedures below.

Early “Rectangle” Key Remotes
The simple answer to battery replacement is that it depends on whether the key is a “Comfort Access” or a “Standard” key.
Details are below so you can tell the difference between the two.

BMW Comfort Access Key
If the car still starts with the key in your pocket, you have Comfort access.
If this feature is present, you have a replaceable battery.
The back of the key also has a small square removable cover, which may not be readily apparent.
– Serviceable Remote.

BMW Slant Key
BMW Slant Key
BMW Standard Key
The key needs to be in the dash slot to start the car.
The battery recharges from the dash. It works very well for about 10 years, and then it’s time for a new key.
– Unserviceable Remote (unless you have access to a small, fine laser to split the welded plastic seam).

 

BMW “Slant” Key
This key is used in many 2011, 2012, 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016, and 2017 F-Series Models.
Such as the 3, 5, and 7 series and the X3.
The good news is that these keys do have a replaceable battery.
– Serviceable Remote.

BMW Diamond Key
BMW Diamond Key


BMW “Diamond” Key
The battery in this key is not designed to be replaced.
It is, however, possible to replace the battery in this key by cutting the case and soldering a new battery.
To replace this BMW key battery, you will need a VL2020 battery.
This procedure is not recommended by the manufacturer.
– Unserviceable Remote (unless you have access to a small, fine laser to split the welded plastic seam.)

 


Service Procedures For Each Key Type – Click To Enlarge

Conclusion
Replacing batteries in your BMW remote key is a pretty straightforward procedure, if you follow the details supplied here. If you have question, please stop by, we keep most remote batteries in stock, and are delighted to help you and your BMW.

Our Goal For You and Your Car
Our goal is to save you money, not spend it. This is why each car we service gets a free Courtesy Maintenance Inspection during its first service visit. If additional work, or service is needed, we’ll gladly advise and offer a free estimate!

We aim to let you know about the small problems before they become big. Right now, we have a number of customer cars with well over 200,000 miles and several approaching 300,000! And these cars are not just limping along – most look and drive pretty much the way they came out of the showroom.

Proper maintenance is an investment in the life of your vehicle.
Knowing, not just doing, but actually knowing and understanding the difference, makes all the difference.

Be sure your car is properly loved.
Our professionals will attend to both your and your car’s needs.

Atlantic Motorcar…Extraordinary Service for Extraordinary Cars, just a phone call away, (207) 882-9969.

Thanks! 

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