Case Studies

A Collection of the Odd, Unusual and Interesting Found While Servicing Our Client Vehicles.

Originally intended as a showcase for customers of our workshop and staff’s abilities, this page has evolved in an interesting and informative teaching tool, and one of the most popular pages on our site!

By nature, these are rather extreme examples of failures, and not what we typically find during service. Our goal at Atlantic Motorcar is to prevent these from happening to you and your car. But rest assured, if we can fix these challenges, regular maintenance is breeze!

We like to call this our “YES WE CAN!” page. You can also view many of these concerns on our Facebook page. Each photo can be enlarged by clicking on it.

AMC Tech Talk Q&A – Oil Change Intervals – When Should I Really Change My Oil?

August 8, 2017

Case Studies

Atlantic Motorcar Center

“Hi, just curious – if we are using the more expensive synthetic oil isn’t the oil change longer and more mileage allowed?
– Jenny”

====================
Hi Jenny,Thats a great question!
We recommend oil changes on a 5,000 – 7,500 mile interval, even with synthetic engine oil.This is especially true of vehicles 3 years and older (or over 60,000 miles) as the engine wear tends to allow byproducts of combustion into the oil, in other words, it gets dirty quicker. If you check your engine oil on the dipstick after a few thousand miles, you’ll be surprised how dirty it is.

The Lexus factory service schedule for your year vehicle is every 5,000 miles. That’s our recommendation as well, based on experience, and longevity for the car.

Our goal is always have a trusting, professional relationship with our customers, as such we make recommendations based on our experience and in the best interest of the customer.

We know this works as we have customer vehicles in excess of 300,000 miles on the odometer and still going strong.

We have an expression here at AMC, I learned it a long time from one of my mentors back in Buffalo. “Oil is cheaper than metal”. Which means simply that it is much less costly to change the oil, than to replace worn engine parts.

Here’s a link to a Case Study I wrote about this – http://casestudies.atlanticmotorcar.com/oil-is-cheaper-than-metal-why-its-important-to-change-fluids-3/

Hope that helps!
You can choose to go with longer internals if you wish, just let your Service Advisor know on the next visit.

Thanks,
AMC Service

Audi 2.0 TFSI Engine Oil Consumption – Correction

April 13, 2017

Case Studies

Atlantic Motorcar Center

What is the problem?

The early version of the TFSI gasoline engines found in the A5, A4 and Q5 have an inherent design fault which leads to high consumption of oil.

The base problem seems to relate to the piston rings, which allow small amounts of oil to leak round the pistons into the cylinders, where it burns and therefore leads to high oil consumption. The typical way drivers become aware of this is when the ‘add one litre of oil’ notice comes up on the dashboard. When this comes up you don’t need to immediately stop, but you should add a litre of correct grade oil as promptly as you can.

Over time this problem gets worse, and the range you can drive before needing to add oil steadily drops. In advanced cases there can be noticeable smoke from the exhaust under heavy acceleration, and it is also known to damage the actual cylinders themselves, causing scoring in the bores. One theory is that these grooves cause more and more oil to leak around the pistons, hence the problem gets progressively worse.

Note that the Audi specification for the 2.0 engines allows for a quart of oil to be used every 1,000 miles, and they will not consider this level of usage to be a fault. This is written in the manual if you look in the section on oil. However, many 2.0 TFSI owners routinely get only around 500-600 miles, which is definitely out of spec. (Other engines may have different specifications, please check your manual to confirm)

What engines are affected?

The 2.0 and 1.8 TFSI engines prior to 2012. Engine codes known to be affected include CAEB, CDNC and CNDC (list being updated). The problem seems to have been corrected when the facelift was released. But all A5 TFSI engines before that, i.e. 2008 – 2012, are susceptible.

The overwhelming majority of reports are for the 2.0, but 1.8 TFSI is also affected. There have been far fewer reports from 1.8 owners and information is harder to find. It is unclear whether this is because the 1.8 is less susceptible to the problem, or there are simply less 1.8 engines in existence.

Diesels engines are not affected, but there have been isolated reports of the larger petrol engines such as those found in the S5 also having an oil problem, but it’s unclear if this is the same issue. Again, S5’s are far less common than 2.0 TFSI A5s, so that may be the reason there are few reports of this.

The following advice should be generally applicable for any owner with oil problems, but is primarily based on the experience of 2.0 owners. If you have a different engine and find information that contradicts this FAQ, please post below and I will update.

How can I tell if I have the problem?

It’s fairly easy to test. Top up your oil then reset your odometer. When the one litre message comes up if you’ve done less than 1200 miles you have the problem. In practise if you are getting anything under 2000 miles you probably have the problem, but Audi won’t acknowledge it until you get below 1200 miles. (this is correct for 2.0 engines, I am not sure the spec mileage for other engines)

However, for Audi to do any corrective work you need to have an official consumption test done by a main dealer. For this they will drain your car of oil, then fill it up with a carefully measured volume so they know exactly how much is in the engine. You are then asked to drive 500 miles, or until the one litre warning comes on, whichever is first. At that point you return to the dealer, they drain the engine again and carefully measure how much is left. In this way they can get an extremely accurate measurement of the oil used over the distance. If more than half a quart has been used over 500 miles, the car has failed the test and they will recommend a repair. It is essential that you not top up the oil during the consumption test, as it will invalidate the result.

Audi dealers will typically charge $80-125 for the consumption test, although this is sometimes waived for goodwill.

Can I ignore it?

For a long time, especially when Audi wasn’t offering much in the way of financial contribution, many TFSI owners took the view that it wasn’t harming the engine, and buying a 4 quart bottle of oil every few months was a lot cheaper than the repair.

However, it has now been confirmed that the problem does harm the engine, it causes scoring and grooves to be worn into the cylinder bores. In the short term these make the problem worse, longer term this could eventually cause the engine to fail.

So you are strongly advised not to just ignore the issue.

Can it be fixed?

There are three known solutions.

Stage 1

This involves replacing the crankcase breather and updating the engine management software to the latest release. While it appears to reduce the problem in some cases, and is sometimes offered alongside the consumption test as an initial fix, it does not seem to be a permanent solution and Audi does not seem to be offering it very often anymore. A typical charge $200 for this but it is sometimes offered free by the Audi dealer with the test as goodwill for vehicles under or just out of warranty.

Stage 2

This involves removing the engine from the car, stripping it down to the cylinders and replacing the pistons, piston rings and connecting rods. It takes around 12 hours to do this, so it is not a trivial piece of work. Provided there is no other damage the stage 2 solution will completely fix the problem. Most shops typically charge $5,000 – $6,00 for this.

However, before conducting a stage 2 fix, the service facility should check the cylinders to see if they have been damaged. This is done either by stripping the engine, or by putting an boroscope in through the spark plug sockets. If the bores are damaged the stage 2 fix is not suitable as the grooves will still cause oil to leak around the rings.

Stage 3

The final repair option is a completely new or good quality used engine, and this is the only fix that will work if the cylinders have been damaged. This is a permanent fix, the replacement engine will not have the same problem. Most professional shops typically charge $12,000 – $14,000 for a new engine this.

Note that both the Stage 2 and 3 are permanent solutions, neither is more effective than the other, and there is no requirement to have the stage 2 before you have the stage 3, in fact that would only happen if the dealer missed there being engine damage in the cylinders.

The only thing that decides whether you need the stage 2 or 3 is the presence of scoring damage in the cylinders.

Tech Talk – The Truth About Tires

April 12, 2017

Case Studies

Atlantic Motorcar Center

Tires, you know, those black, round things that you car sits on, the things we only pay attention to when they are flat?

We often get asked what are the “best” tires out there. Now “Best” and “Cheap” don’t really belong in the same sentence, so let’s pick another term “Best Value“. Value in terms of cost, durability and ride handling, for the next 3-5 years you own your car.

Without a doubt, and what we’ve based our business on, the “Best Value” in tires is Michelin. Hands down. It’s what I run on my own car, and my wife’s car, and it’s the only tire brand we sell. Be it an Audi, BMW, Infiniti, Mercedes, Lexus, Volvo,

Why Only Michelin
We are a Michelin only dealer, and not being a company owned tire store, we are free to choose what we feel is best for the customer, and the car. I am often asked why I recommend only Michelin tires. Those that know me also know that I do not recommend them because I sell them. On the contrary, I sell them because I know the quality they represent. See the distinction there?

Most people realize that lower quality tires do not ride as well or last as long. Perhaps they may reason, with the price savings (usually less than $25-50 per tire) they can justify the lack of performance. What many do not realized is one reason low quality tires ride badly is that they are often not round. Bad or “cheap” tires often have a condition known as radial run-out, sometimes called “conicity” meaning cone shaped. Think of an egg shape rather than a perfect circle.

Reeking Havoc
If poor ride and faster wear were the only problem, that would be bad enough. Much worse, is the side we see as import service specialists. The constant vibration from out of round tires reeks havoc on expensive suspension components.

Your vehicle’s suspension tries to absorb the vibration, as it is designed to do. This can very quickly destroy expensive or safety components. Leaking steering rack, worn ball joints, shocks, struts and even wheel bearing and hub damage can occur. Hundreds or even over a thousand dollars in damage can be done by an out of round set of tires. Yes really.

Warranty, A Real One
Consider tire life, a proper set of Michelin tires, properly balanced and rotated, will net you a minimum of 55-60,000 miles of use. And if you don’t make that, Michelin offers a warranty, when was the last time you had a tire company warranty a set of tires? In the rare occasions it happens, Michelin can and will.

When the overall cost is looked at, cheap tires are just too expensive. Save $150 on tires and you might do $800 damage to the vehicle. Go with the best and you will never be sorry. Great tires, properly mounted and balanced, Atlantic Motorcar and Michelin, a winning team.

Respectfully,
Bruce and the AMC Team

Volvo and Land Rover Differential Problems – Out Of Town – We’ll Repair – Send To Us

April 11, 2017

Case Studies

Atlantic Motorcar Center

The Problem
This 2010 Volvo XC70 came to us with about 96K miles, and a loud noise coming from the rear of the vehicle. The noise was noticeable at low and moderate speeds while driving, and sounded like a loud whine or hum depending on vehicle speed. Initially this noise sounded like a defective wheel bearing but on further exam we determined the noise was in fact coming from the rear differential, the gear system that transmits force from the transmission to the rear wheels. We’ve seen this before, both on the later model Volvo and the Land Rover LR2 vehicles, and it’s not a good sign.

This differential design has been in use in the Volvo world since the 2008 to at least the 2014 model year, so it’s something to consider if you own a vehicle in that range. We service a tremendous amount of Volvo XC70s, and have seen the problem largely on those models, but have read reports of it being an issue on the S80 as well. Now the earlier Volvos had their own set of differential or bevel gear problems, which you can read about on our blog at Volvo AOC problems.

What We Found
We mentioned that we’ve seen this problem before, and we’ve also seen the new car dealer quotes for the repair, costing anywhere from $6,000 to $8,000 dollars. Sounds expensive, right? Well the part itself is $4,200 from Volvo, not factoring in the considerable labor remove the defective unit, and install the new. The other option, a used part, was considered an unacceptable choice as this is a pattern failure, a common issue with many of the cars, and if the used one was not already in a later stage of failure, remember, you already have a used unit in your car, with no real warranty, is not a good solution.

Local To Us – We’ll Handle This For You
Just make an appointment, and drop off your vehicle to confirm the diagnosis. We’ll give you a free loaner car, and handle the repair for you in a day or so. Our cost to rebuild with a durable solution, Atlantic Motorcar easily save you $3,000 over the dealer price, most of the time we can do the complete repair, with a 1 year National Warranty, for $3,000 to $3,500 installed. Yes, really.

Outside Our Area
No problem, just have your local shop remove the differential, then have them drain and flush out the fluids well for shipping. Package the unit well, your local UPS store can do this for you with a “foam in place” box, remember the box needs to keep the unit safe on the way here and the way back to you. Complete details at https://tinyurl.com/loveyourvolvo or call us for details at (207) 882-9969.

Repair, Not Replace
Sadly the concept of repair, or rebuilding something rather than just replacing it, has become nearly a lost art in today’s automotive world. The concept of diagnosing and understanding the nature of the failure, then effecting a targeted repair to the system, seems to be past history. One thing that we pride in here at AMC, is our ability to diagnose, first understand why the problem occurred – understanding the “why” is the key to preventing a reoccurrence, and then designing a durable solution to the problem. By durable, we mean minimally giving the service life of the replaced part, ideally longer.

On teardown inspection of this rear differential, we confirmed that the bearing and race for the pinion gear had failed, and the pinion gear was nearly seized, very tight and difficult to turn by hand. The inside of the differential was a mass of shinny metal flakes from the failed bearing, and the fluid smelled severely burned. Fortunately the rest of the differential and Haldex drive system were intact and undamaged, so a proper and through cleaning, inspection and precision rebuild were in order.

The concept of disassembling and rebuilding a mechanism like a Haldex differential is not common today, but here’s where Atlantic Motorcar shines. We actually employ skilled technicians who are craftsman, they have not only the ability, but are encouraged to repair, rather than just replace. In this case, our tech removed failed differential from the vehicle, disassembled and inspected to identify the failure, and then assessed what components were needed to rebuild the unit for a durable repair, lasting ideally the life of the car. And this just what we did, and we can do the same thing for you, if you have this problem with your Volvo or Land Rover.

Not Just A Volvo Problem
By the way, this is not just a Volvo problem but is also found on the Land Rover LR2 rear differentials as well. You see, Ford Motor Company owned both Volvo and Land Rover at the time of this design, so Land Rovers and Volvos in this era share this platform among several models, primarily for economic reasons. So while it may be branded a “Land Rover Power Transfer System”, this drivetrain is essentially a Volvo All Wheel Drive design. On the Land Rover, the differential failure and lack of individual repair parts for both brands is similar, and fortunately so is the solution.

Once Of Prevention, Worth A Pound Of Cure

Unfortunately, the Volvo differential or Land Rover “power transfer unit” is equipped with “fill for life” fluid. In the marketing parlance of the day, this is touted as a benefit, and yet at 90,000 miles this part has failed. Would changing the fluid more frequently have saved this part? Very we say likely yes; however fluid changes are often left out of the service schedule by the manufacturer on the newer cars to save money. After all, the manufacturers are in the business of selling new cars, not necessarily maintaining old ones.

Fluid changes on this system are not a “do it yourself” thing, as there is no real provision to drain out the old fluid, it must instead be aspirated, or sucked out with fluid transfer equipment, and the housing cleaned carefully to remove any metal or wear debris. Fortunately Atlantic Motorcar is very well equipped in this regard, and we strongly advise adding a differential fluid service on Volvos and Land Rovers, at the 90,000 mile service interval, if not sooner.

About that magic fluid. Both Volvo and Land Rover sell a very expensive, and specialty branded ‘special lubricant’ for their power transfer unit or angle gear unit, yet these components only consist of simple gears and bearings. Rather than the costly, and apparently insufficient factory fill, we always use synthetic gear oil just to add a little extra margin of durability. This still costs a fraction of the dealer fluid. It is important to use the manufacturers recommended fluid while the vehicle is under the new car warranty.

How We Can Help
At Atlantic Motorcar we’ve developed some very specific procedures and tooling, combined with our expect technicians, to make this otherwise onerous repair a snap. Well, maybe not a “snap”, hard to call a day + of labor a snap, let’s just say that we make it flow very, very smoothly. All told, proper maintenance and repair is far less costly than replacing your vehicle every 3 year or so.

Finally
Questions, or if we can be of help in any way with service on your Audi, BMW, Mercedes, Mini Cooper or other European (and now Japanese) import, please contact us. Our team of Service Specialists are here to help, for even the newest autos! (207) 882-9969.

Knowing, not just “doing”, that’s the Atlantic Motorcar Center way of life.
Thanks!

Warmly,
The Atlantic Motorcar Center Service Team

BMW and Mini Battery Registration (Replacement)

January 31, 2017

Case Studies

Atlantic Motorcar Center

The electrical system in late-model Minis and BMWs is quite sophisticated, in that it tailors charging as closely as possible to both the type and age of the battery. The Engine Management computer also controls the alternator output. When replacing a battery, this computer needs to be informed if you’ve replaced the battery or updated the vehicle from a conventional Lead Acid battery to an Absorbent Glass Mat (AGM) type; it charges the AGM differently than a traditional battery.

How It’s Done

This process of updating the alternator-control computer is called Battery Registration. Ignoring the registration process after replacing a battery won’t necessarily trigger a Diagnostic Trouble Code or Malfunction Indicator Lamp (‘Check Engine’ or ‘Service Engine Soon’ light). However, be advised that skipping the battery registration process can dramatically shorten the life of a battery in these vehicles and- worse yet- damage components within the entire electrical system.

What Happens If It’s Not Done

We have diagnosed some BMWs with failing batteries, some installed less than a year, simply due to failing to have the battery registered! The charging system often shortens the life of an unregistered battery by charging it too aggressively, especially when it is cold, and sometimes damaging other control units. At times, we have replaced an alternator that failed prematurely because battery registration was not performed when the vehicle’s battery was replaced.

Battery Registration informs the vehicle that the battery has been replaced. It completes the following operations:

Battery capacity is set to 80%
Current Odometer reading are stored
Stored battery statistics (current, voltage, battery charge level) are deleted
Stored temperature statistics are deletedThe following late-model vehicles require battery registration:
2002 and newer 7-Series E65/E66 chassis
2003 and newer 6-Series E54/E63 chassis
2004 and newer 5-Series E60/E61 chassis
2006 and newer 3-Series E90/E91/E92/E93 chassis
2005 and newer X5 E53 chassis with N62 engine
2007 and newer X5 E70 chassis
2008 and newer X6 E71 chassis
2007 and newer Mini Coopers (R56)

Don’t Take Chances

Don’t take the chance, always have a new battery registered after installation at a BMW-qualified shop- it’s not expensive and will ensure a properly operating electrical system. At Atlantic Motorcar, we have the equipment and the training to properly register your vehicle’s battery to factory specs, ensuring that manufacturer warranty requirements have been met.

Your Advocate, On Your Side

At AMC, because we are independent and locally owned, we are YOUR advocate, and our team makes a point of checking recalls and service campaigns from the manufacturer on every visit, and keeping our customers up to date.

Final

Not a simple repair, yes, but one, if done correctly, will last several years. That’s our goal with BMW, and other autos here, fix it right the first time, and prevent problems from happening in the first place. 30 years of service experience have well taught us that “an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure.” Be cured, once and for all, and give us a call, we’re happy to answer any service questions you might have on your BMW, Audi, Mercedes, Lexus, Volvo or Volkswagen.Earning your trust, every time you turn the car…that’s what we do…every day…for the last 30 years. Click here see what our happy customers have to say about us and our service at AMC Customer Reviews.

If you have questions, or if we can be of further assistance, just call us at (207) 882-969, we’d love to meet you, and your car!

Warmly,
Bruce and the AMC Service Team

Volvo Fuel Pump Failure

January 31, 2017

Case Studies

Atlantic Motorcar Center

Tech Tip – Volvo Fuel Filter Changes, Prevent Problems and Save Money

See the photo?
That’s a electric fuel pump, you don’t want to have to buy one, read on for a a quick way to save yourself some real money, and headache!

Volvo has a 105K or 120K mile schedule for replacement of the engine fuel filter. Lately we’ve been seeing an increasing number of the Volvo electric fuel pumps failing.

Prevent Rather Than Repair
We feel that this problem is brought about by extended intervals between fuel filter replacement. In the past, fuel filters were often changed at 30k or 60K mile intervals…and we rarely had pump failures. A clogged or dirty filter makes the pump work harder, resulting in premature wear, and soon, failure.

The cost to replace the fuel filter, usually under $100, is dwarfed by the replacement cost of the electric fuel pump, in some cases over $1,300 on the early XC70s. We strongly advise changing the fuel filter in your 2001-2007 Volvo on a 60K interval.

Part of professional auto service to not just replacing parts, but determining why they failed in the first place. Armed with this knowledge, we can make recommendations to save you both time, and money. That’s the Atlantic Motorcar Center way, preventing problems before they occur, everyday.

Questions, or if we can help you with your auto, just call us at (207) 882-9969, we’re here to help!

– Bruce and the AMC Service Team

BMW and Mini Cooper Turbo Failure

January 31, 2017

Case Studies

Atlantic Motorcar Center

Problem
A common yet avoidable problem we see with BMW and Mini Coopers is turbocharger failure. Turbocharger failures can be catastrophic, so they are important to address at the first sign of a problem. As its name implies, a turbocharger is a device increases the power output of an engine.

In our workshop, we see a number of turbocharger or “turbo” issues, on a number of different cars. Almost always on vehicles not serviced by us, but rather referred to workshop by the dealer, or another repair facility. Over the years we’ve compiled a very effective set of diagnostic principles to make the determination of the failure mode, and corrective action, very straightforward.

Cause Of Failure
The main cause of turbocharger failure is oil-related – usually due to either lack of oil or dirty oil. Turbocharger failures in BMWs seems to be caused by the long oil service intervals. (The dealer typically recommends oil changes every 12,000-18,000 miles, depending upon when the car’s indicator says to do it.) Turbocharger failures can be catastrophic, so they are important to address at the first sign of a problem.

Signs Of Turbocharger Failure
If you experience any of the following signs, you may be on your way to turbocharger failure. Call or stop by the Atlantic Motorcar Center so we can check out your BMW or Mini Cooper turbocharger immediately.

Your check engine light comes on
You hear a screeching noise that sounds like metal on metal
You experience a great loss of power

Prevention
The old bromide that “An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure” never rang truer than in the case of your engine’s turbocharger. Proper servicing, which is all too often overlooked on today’s newer cars with their extended service intervals, will go a long way to preventing problems in the first place. We strongly advise to all of our customers, to consider changing the engine oil and filter every 5,000 miles. Following extended service intervals of 12,000 to 15,000 miles is a recipe for failure, setting the customer up for a very expensive, and very unexpected failure down the road. Nothing is less costly, or can do more to prolong the life of your car, than changing the fluid and filter (if equipped) on a regular basis, BEFORE failure.

Operating To Prevent Failure
Here are ways to avoid turbocharger failure in your BMW or Mini Cooper

1. Have frequent oil changes using quality oil. We recommend oil changes at least every 5,000 miles.

2. After driving (once you have reached your destination), let your vehicle idle for a couple of minutes, rather than turning it off right away. This will let the turbo cool down a little before turning it off.

3. Keep oil full and cooling system in good working order.

4. Frequent maintenance. Have a qualified BMW or Mini Cooper service facility inspect your BMW or Mini turbo every 6 months. At Atlantic Motorcar, we do this each time your car is in, as part of our normal service process.

Your Advocate, On Your Side
At AMC, because we are independent and locally owned, we are YOUR advocate, and our team makes a point of checking recalls and service campaigns from the manufacturer on every visit, and keeping our customers up to date.

Final
Not a simple repair, yes, but one, if done correctly, will last several years. That’s our goal with BMW, and other autos here, fix it right the first time, and prevent problems from happening in the first place. 30 years of service experience have well taught us that “an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure.” Be cured, once and for all, and give us a call, we’re happy to answer any service questions you might have on your BMW, Audi, Mercedes, Lexus, Volvo or Volkswagen.

Earning your trust, every time you turn the car…that’s what we do…every day…for the last 30 years. Click here see what our happy customers have to say about us and our service at AMC Customer Reviews.

If you have questions, or if we can be of further assistance, just call us at (207) 882-969, we’d love to meet you, and your car!

Warmly,
Bruce and the AMC Service Team

BMW Seat Occupancy Sensor

January 31, 2017

Case Studies

Atlantic Motorcar Center

What It Is
A vehicle’s passenger occupancy sensor detects whether a passenger is in the seat and decides whether or not to allow the airbag to deploy in the event of an accident. If the sensor determines a weight on the seat is not a person, the airbag does not deploy. The traditional seat occupancy sensor is a mat sewn under the upholstery on the surface of the seat. Beginning in 2006, manufacturers began replacing traditional seat occupancy sensors with occupancy classification sensors that not only determine whether the weight in the passenger seat is a person or not, but also attempt to classify the size of the passenger and decide whether to release the airbag at a slow, medium or fast speed to avoid injury.

Problem
The BMW seat sensor is an item that seems to fail at a higher rate than expected. BMW had an extended warranty on the sensor for a period of time, but that warranty is now expired for most cars. If you found this post, you may have already received a shocking quote for the replacement at the new car dealer. Rest assured, we can help. We can help save you money, and be sure the repair is done correctly, the first time.

Process
Nick replacing a Seat Occupancy Sensor for the SRS or Airbag system on a customer’s BMW wagon. The sensor tells the SRS computer if someone is sitting in the seat. Bet you didn’t know you had so much stuff under your car seat! Motors, heaters, sensors, switches, you name it! As you can see, this is not a process for the faint of heart.

If you have questions, or if we can be of further assistance, just call us at (207) 882-969, we’d love to meet you, and your car!

Warmly,
Bruce and the AMC Service Team

BMW, Audi and Volvo Torque Converter Problems

January 31, 2017

Case Studies

Atlantic Motorcar Center

Problem
In our workshop, we see a number of transmission issues, on a number of different cars, from BMW, Audi, Volvo, and Honda. Almost always on vehicles not serviced by us, but rather referred to workshop by the dealer, or another repair facility. Over the years we’ve compiled a very effective set of diagnostic principles to make the determination of the failure mode, and corrective action, very straightforward.

Prevention
The old bromide that “An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure” never rang truer than in the case of the automatic transmission. Proper servicing, which is all too often overlooked on today’s newer cars with their extended service intervals, will go a long way to preventing problems in the first place. We strongly advise to all of our customers, to consider changing the transmission fluid and filter at the 60,000 mile mark. We see all kinds of crazy schedules from the manufacturers, from never changing transmission fluid, to changing at 90,000, or 120,000 miles. This is a recipe for failure, setting the customer up for a very expensive, and very unexpected transmission failure down the road. Nothing is less costly, or can do more to prolong the life of your car, than changing the fluid and filter (if equipped) on a regular basis, BEFORE failure.

What Is Really The Cause?
Torque converter problems are sometimes misinterpreted as symptoms of a failing transmission. Unfortunately, this can lead people to think that they need to spend thousands of dollars to rebuild or replace their automatic transmission when the cost to replace a malfunctioning torque converter is considerably cheaper. However, diagnosing the cause of a transmission issue isn’t easy. In many cases, the torque converter will not actually be the source of the problem (you might just have a fluid leak!). The purpose of this guide is to simply help you narrow down the possibilities and educate yourself before you get your transmission checked out.

What Does A Torque Convertor Really Do?

In a nutshell, a torque converter is a fluid coupling that transfers torque from the engine to the transmission. It is mounted between the engine and transmission, bolted directly to a ‘flex plate’ which is spun by the crankshaft.

Internal combustion engines create power by burning fuel that forces the pistons to turn the crankshaft located at the bottom of the engine. This rotational force is transferred to the transmission by the fluid pressure inside the torque converter.

Inside of the torque converter cover lives a series of propeller-like blades called the pump. This assembly spins in unison with the engine crankshaft, forcing transmission fluid onto another blade assembly called the impeller. This second set of blades is connected to the transmission input shaft. The amount of hydraulic pressure that it creates inside the transmission dictates the gear and ultimately, the speed of the vehicle.

The impeller’s speed is regulated by the engine side of this hydrodynamic circuit (ie. speed of the pump blades). When the vehicle is stationary, or the driver applies the brakes, the impeller will slow considerably, while the pump continues to spin. This allows the torque converter to act like the clutch in a manual transmission – it allows the engine to continue running while the vehicle is at a complete stop.

Once the transmission fluid has been hurled onto the impeller blades, it has to return to the pump in order to keep the cycle going. Since the fluid is now flowing in a different direction than the pump, it has to be reversed to avoid slowing down (and stalling) the engine.

To do this, a third finned wheel called the stator is located between the two turbines on the transmission pump shaft. Its blades are precisely angled so that when the transmission fluid hits them, it reverses direction and gets channeled back to the pump. When the vehicle stops, its built-in one-way clutch causes it to stop spinning, breaking the hydrodynamic circuit.

How Does It Work?
Once the vehicle starts to accelerate from a stop, the stator is once again free to spin. In the split second that the transmission fluid hits the back of the now-released stator, it starts to spin the transmission pump, and briefly multiplies the torque coming from the engine side of the circuit. This causes the transmission pump to force more fluid in the transmission, resulting in movement.

Once the vehicle is in motion, the stator’s one-way clutch allows it to start spinning in the same direction as the other turbines, reversing the fluid flow and completing the hydrodynamic circuit.

After all of the transmission gears have been shifted through and the vehicle has reached cruising speed, the lockup clutch engages, connecting the front cover of the torque converter (aka the pump) to the impeller. This causes all of the turbines to work together in a direct drive/overdrive scenario.

6 Signs of a Torque Converter Problem
It isn’t easy to isolate and diagnose a torque converter issue without taking the transmission/drivetrain apart, but there are several symptoms to look for. A few of the signs of a malfunctioning torque converter include: shuddering, contaminated fluid, gears change at high RPMs and strange sounds such as clicking or whirring.

Slipping
Since a torque converter is responsible for translating engine torque into the hydraulic pressure needed to shift gears inside the transmission, a damaged fin or bearing can cause the transmission to delay a shift, or slip out of gear. Slipping can also be caused by there being not enough or too much fluid in the transmission, or excessively worn or dirty fluid. You may also experience a loss of acceleration and a noticeable reduction in your car’s fuel economy.

Overheating
If the temperature gauge indicates that your car is overheating, it could be a sign that there has been a drop in fluid pressure and there is a problem with your torque converter. If a converter is overheating, it won’t be able to transfer power from the engine to the transmission. This results in poor throttle response, and excessive wear and tear on the internal workings of the transmission. Low fluid levels or a malfunctioning convertor clutch solenoid can also cause a transmission to overheat.

Shuddering
If the lockup clutch inside the torque converter is starting to malfunction, you may experience shuddering at around 30-45 mph. The sensation is very noticeable and typically feels like you’re driving over a rough road with many small bumps, or even like an engine misfire. As the converter switches over to direct drive, a worn lockup clutch can make the transition difficult, resulting in this sensation. The feeling may start and stop abruptly and may not last long, but if you’ve experienced it several times, it’s time to get your transmission checked.

Contaminated Transmission Fluid
A torque converter is filled with automatic transmission fluid (ATF). If the fluid is contaminated, it can do damage the parts inside. This can result in worn bearings on the stator, or damaged fins on one of the turbines.

If you notice a significant amount of black sludge/grime/debris in the fluid it could mean that the converter or transmission itself is damaged. In this case, change the fluid and drive around for a while before checking the fluid again. If the problem persists, get your car checked by a professional.

Higher Stall Speed/Gear Engagement RPM
The ‘stall speed’ is the point at which the engine RPMs are high enough for the torque converter to transfer power from the engine to the transmission. In other words, it is the RPM at which the converter will stop the engine speed from increasing if transmission output is prohibited. If the torque converter is broken, it won’t be able to transfer the engine’s rotational force into hydraulic pressure correctly. This will result in the transmission taking longer to engage the engine, causing the stall speed to increase. Here is how to do a stall speed test. You’ll have to find out what your vehicles stall speed is beforehand (typically 2000 to 2500 RPM).

Strange/Unusual Sounds
It’s not uncommon for the torque converter to emit strange noises as it begins to fail. Some of the sounds you might hear include a ‘whirring’ sound coming from bad bearings, or ‘clinking’ sound coming from a broken turbine fin.

If you have questions, or if we can be of further assistance, just call us at (207) 882-969, we’d love to meet you, and your car!

Warmly,
Bruce and the AMC Service Team

Volkswagen 2.0 TSI Timing Chain Failures

January 31, 2017

Case Studies

Bruce Howes

VW and Audi 2.0T TSI Engines had some issues relating to the lower timing chain tensioner. This includes both CCTA, CBFA, CAEB and CPMA engines from 2008-2015. On this model these was an early version of this tensioner that may fail losing its hydraulic tension.

When the 2.0T TSI Timing Chain Tensioner Fails it can cause the intake or exhaust valves to contact the piston while the engine is running. If this happens you will need the cylinder head to be removed and the valves to be replaced. At this time you would also need to verify there was no further damage done to the pistons, cylinder walls or cylinder head. This repair would cost $2-4K depending on the damage done.

How do you know if this happened to your vehicle? If this tensioner fails you could have any of the following issues. Engine rattling noise at start up, No start condition (because the timing chain has jumped and you likely have significant engine damaged), as well as fault codes P0016 (Crank/ Cam position sensor correlation) or P0328 (Knock Sensor 1 Circuit High Input).

If you have a TSI you should considering replacing your tensioner as a preventative to ensure your engine does not jump timing and cause significant damage to your engine. We have heard of these failing with fairly low miles (30K) on them. This part is found on the passenger (Right) side of the engine and the lower timing chain cover must be removed to access it.

What vehicles are affected?
Its difficult to be certain but all of our experience has led us to believe that any 2.0t TSI engine up to 2013 should be checked. Its often been said some 2012 model have the old and some have the new. Since we cant be 100% certain we recommend checking to be certain.

How Common is this?
It still remains to be seen how common this is, but here are my thoughts. This issue it common enough that you absolutely should have your system checked. Why? Because not updating your tensioner and continuing to drive is a pretty big gamble, engines are far more costly than a timing chain kit update.

What should I expect to pay?
This is not a simple repair, realistically, it’s over half a day of shop time labor for updating the tensioner. However, doing this will ensure you get the newest revision in your vehicle, which should prevent future issues.

Previous Versions of this VW/Audi Tensioner are 06H-109-467-N, 06H-109-467-AB, 06H-109-467-T. Be sure to get the most updated version at this time found Here.

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