Case Studies

A Collection of the Odd, Unusual and Interesting Found While Servicing Our Client Vehicles.

Originally intended as a showcase for customers of our workshop and staff’s abilities, this page has evolved in an interesting and informative teaching tool, and one of the most popular pages on our site!

By nature, these are rather extreme examples of failures, and not what we typically find during service. Our goal at Atlantic Motorcar is to prevent these from happening to you and your car. But rest assured, if we can fix these challenges, regular maintenance is breeze!

We like to call this our “YES WE CAN!” page. You can also view many of these concerns on our Facebook page. Each photo can be enlarged by clicking on it.

Sunroof Water Leaks And How To Prevent Them

November 10, 2021

Case Studies

Atlantic Motorcar Center

Tech Tip – How’s Your Sunroof Drains?

Important Service Tip – Make sure your sunroof tracks are clean and clear as debris will find their way into the drain system, causing water to backup or leak inside your car. Pine needles, and leaves, both pretty common this time of year, are not your friends. This is especially true if you park your vehicle outside, somehow that stuff always finds its way in.

How – You can “Do It Yourself” by fully opening your sunroof, inspecting the track, and the areas underneath. Then carefully and manually clearing away all the debris you see in the track, in extreme cases, you might need to use a vacuum cleaner. Try to avoid parking under trees, espcaully pine trees, if you can help it.

Check The Drains – Make sure your sunroof drains are clean and clear by slowing pouring a cup of water on each side, near the drain holes, and observing that it drains away. Modern sunroofs are not designed to seal perfectly from water entry, some always gets through, especially in the large glass panoramic designs. This is what the drains are for, to handle the water that finds its way in, and to direct it down the drains, and not into the car. By the way, this design is always the prime reason why aftermarket sunroofs almost always invariably leak, as they do not have the water track and drain system, and rely instead on a perfect seal.

Clogged Drains – Normally this water entry is not a problem, but when the drain tubes get clogged, all manner of havoc can break loose. These tubes are designed to take the water that makes it around the seal, and drain it down the front “A Pillars”, the metal channels on either side of the front windshield. Once these tubes clog, they often allow water to leak inside the car, making for a wet headliner, carpet, dash, or giving rise to all sorts of electrical gremlins. If you have clogged sunroof drains, seek immediate professional correction, before water entry damages your car, or its electronics. Be very careful about cleaning the drains with compressed air, or wire snakes, lest you disconnect, puncture or damage the drain tubes, requiring removal of the headliner of the vehicle to access and correct.

Twice Yearly – At Atlantic Motorcar Center, we advise checking these on a regular basis, and clean as needed, usually twice yearly. It’s important, if you are having your vehicle maintained elsewhere, to make sure this simple, but vital service is carried out. An ounce of prevention, worth a pound of cure.

All Cars – By the way, this is not use a Mini Cooper or VW problem, we see the same issue on Audi, BMW, Mercedes, Volvo, Saab, Lexus, and other brands. If you have a sunroof, check the drains, sooner, rather than later, and as noted, this is doubly true if you park outside.

Value – At Atlantic Motorcar, we’re all about providing our customers not only Great Service but also Value. We understand that “An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure.” (my mom would be proud I remembered that.), in other words, preventing, or catching problems like these brake lines early, can save you more than just money.

Finally – Questions, or if we can be of help in any way with service on your Audi, BMW, Mercedes, Mini Cooper or other European (and now Japanese) import, please contact us. Our team of Service Specialists is here to help, for even the newest autos! (207) 882-9969.

Knowing, not just “doing”, that’s the Atlantic Motorcar Center way.
Thanks!

Warmly,
The Atlantic Motorcar Center Service Team

Mercedes Sprinter Service – Now In Midcoast Maine

October 13, 2021

Case Studies

Atlantic Motorcar Center

Mercedes Sprinter Service – Now In Midcoast Maine

We are now open for Sprinter Service and Diagnostics here in the midcoast!
We follow the Mercedes Service Schedule, handle Check Engine and Warning Lights, as well routine Mercedes A and B Services every 10,000 miles.

Ensure your vehicle remains capable of great performance by servicing your Sprinter van with the professional service team at Atlantic Motorcar.
We’ll get you in and out, quickly and efficiently, minimizing downtime.

Our Bosch Certified Sprinter technicians use the latest technology to ensure that each vehicle is performing up to our highest standards,
and have the most up-to-date knowledge and technology, combined with factory parts so we can provide you with the high quality personal service, for you and your Sprinter!
3 Year /36,000 Mile Nationwide Warranty for your Peace Of Mind.

Please note that though we are a Sprinter Service Point, we are unable to accommodate very large Sprinter RV or box trucks to building limitations,
we are fine with most campers and work vans, so please call for information.

Call Atlantic Motorcar Sprinter Service at (207) 882-9969 for prompt, professional service!

The AMC Service Team

Don’t Knock The Humble Knock Sensor – Piezoelectric Knock Sensors – Design, Theory And Operation

October 13, 2021

Case Studies

Atlantic Motorcar Center

Don’t Knock The Humble Knock Sensor – Piezoelectric Knock Sensors – Design, Theory And Operation

What They Are
This is a quick technical dissertation will cover the design, function and how to test piezoelectric knock sensors on gasoline engine equipped vehicles.
Often buried deep down in the bowels of the engine, the knock sensor is one of those things that rarely fails, or is even discussed, until a problem occurs.
To put it simply, knock sensors are vibration sensors that are well suited to detect structure-borne acoustic oscillations.

Purpose
This can occur as knock in a gasoline engine when pre-ignition or detonation occur (unintended combustion).
The knock sensor converts the engine knock into an electrical signal, monitored by the engine control module.
The engine control module uses this signal to counteract engine knock via ignition timing adjustments.

Theory Of Operation
Inside the sensor is a toroidal piezoceramic element with an attached mass.
The mass reacts to the vibration caused by engine knock, in turn causing movement in the piezoceramic element which generates an electrical signal.
This is the signal used by the engine control module as described earlier.

An engine will utilize just enough knock sensors to reliably monitor engine knock.
On four-cylinder engines one knock sensor can be used, as it can easily monitor all of the cylinders. As engine cylinder count increases, more sensors are needed.
Most times knock sensors are split into banks. For example on a six-cylinder engine, bank 1 may be cylinders 1 -3 and bank 2 would be cylinder 4 – 6.

A Volvo engine equipped with one sensor.

A Mercedes-Benz engine equipped with two sensors.

**Knock Sensor – Mercedes 6 Cylinder Engine**

Sensor are mounted to the engine crankcase and secured with a bolt tightened to s specified torque.
This tightening torque is important, under or over torqued fasteners could reduce sensor reliability.
Then sensor is mounted directly to crankcase with no washers to a machined and clean surface.

Knock Sensor Crankcase Mounting Location

Testing
When sensors fail they can cause a few different faults. First of course if the sensor electrical circuit fails, you will receive a fault related to the circuit, such as a P0325.
This code refers to the sensor circuit, so it will likely be an electrical failure. P0326 may set, this fault code refers to sensor range / performance.
This can set due to signal out of range. The sensor can also fail, setting no fault codes but causing ignition timing to retard therefore reducing engine power.
This can be checked by viewing live data stream and confirming engine timing is being retarded.

When testing turn the Key On with the engine OFF, backprobe the sensor connector to check the bias voltage (this voltage is present for circuit integrity).
On most vehicles one wire will be battery negative (ground), the other will be reference voltage, 2.5 volts with connector plugged in and 5 volts with the connector unplugged.

Testing and Measurement – Knock Sensor Signal

Once you have tested circuit integrity and confirmed DC voltage is correct, you now have to test the sensor signal, which is an AC signal riding along the bias DC volts.
When knock occurs, the sensor will produce about spikes from 0 – 4.5 volts (depending on severity of knock).
You can lightly tap the area surrounding the sensor to manually test it. The sensor will produce a waveform as shown below.
You can also test the sensor using a DVOM in AC volt mode. Expect to see voltage generated in the same range as shown in the scope pattern.

Scope Pattern 1 – Knock Sensor Signal Without Knock Present

Scope Pattern 2 – Knock Sensor Signal With Knock Present

Still need help diagnosing an engine control input on any vehicle? Get in touch, we will get that vehicle fixed for you.

Value
At Atlantic Motorcar, we’re all about providing our customers not only Great Service but also Value. We understand that “An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure.” (my mom would be proud I remembered that.), in other words, preventing, or catching problems like these brake lines early, can save you more than just money.

Finally
Questions, or if we can be of help in any way with service on your Audi, BMW, Mercedes, Mini Cooper or other European (and now Japanese) import, please contact us. Our team of Service Specialists is here to help, for even the newest autos! (207) 882-9969.

Knowing, not just “doing”, that’s the Atlantic Motorcar Center way.
Thanks!

Warmly,
The Atlantic Motorcar Center Service Team

Audi Electrical Diagnosis – HVAC Blower Motor and Control Module Failure

September 13, 2021

Case Studies

Atlantic Motorcar Center

Awww Audi
Mike our shop foreman at the Atlantic Technical Center (ATC) discovered this today when diagnosing a HVAC fault in a client car. Nice call Mike! Now this is bad…whenever we find melted connectors, it’s what we call a “clue”, but also is a very interesting find, instructive even. Especially if you understand Ohm’s Law or E = IR, and also the relationship between heat and resistance, also known as P=I2R.

Great question!
Normally electric power is useful, making a lamp light or a motor turn for example. However, electrical energy is converted to heat whenever a current flows through a resistance and this can be a problem if it makes a device or wire overheat. In electronics the effect is usually negligible, but if the resistance is low but not close to zero (a wire or low value resistor for example) the current can be sufficiently large to cause a problem. You can see from the equation P = I² × R that for a given resistance the power depends on the current squared, so doubling the current will give 4 times the power.

What Happened
In this case, a worn blower motor was drawing much more current than normal, to overcome the friction of the worn bearings. Yet, not enough current to cause the fuse to blow, which would have alerted to the problem. As the worn bearings created excessive drag, which in turn causes the current to rise, more current equates to more heat at any resistance point. More current means any resistance in the system is going to get warm. Electrical connectors are the weak point, heat is generated there due to resistance. More heat causes tempered spring connection to fail and become loose, creating more resistance.

I agree, you’d think with that much heat, to clearly melt the plastic connector, and also melt the solder off the circuit board, that the fuse would fail, that’s what fuses do, right? It did not, but the resistance at the connector was turned into heat (P=I2R), and what it did do was melt the wiring harness, effecting the need for a wiring harness repair. And replacement of the melted module, and the worn blower motor. Schematic diagram is attached for you adventurous sorts. I love German wiring diagrams, so logical, and…well, so German.

The Proper Repair
The only true and permanent repair is to replace the blower motor, control unit, and repair the wiring harness. It’s just not worth the risk, do it right the first time, and it’s good to go.

Value
At Atlantic Motorcar, we’re all about providing our customers not only Great Service but also Value. We understand that “An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure.” (my mom would be proud I remembered that.), in other words, preventing, or catching problems like these brake lines early, can save you more than just money.

Finally
Questions, or if we can be of help in any way with service on your Audi, BMW, Mercedes, Mini Cooper or other European (and now Japanese) import, please contact us.

Our team of Service Specialists is here to help, for even the newest autos! (207) 882-9969.Knowing, not just “doing”, that’s the Atlantic Motorcar Center way.
Thanks!

Warmly,
The Atlantic Motorcar Center Service Team

Let’s Talk About Steering Wheel or Tire “Pull” – Can Your Tires Really Be Cone Shaped?

September 8, 2021

Case Studies

Atlantic Motorcar Center

Let’s Talk About Steering “Pull”
What can cause your vehicle to pull to one side? Let’s assume the obvious reasons have been rectified.
Your vehicle’s alignment has been checked and has either been re-set to the manufacturer’s specs or it is in good shape.
What could cause your vehicle to continue to pull to one side or the other?

Three Reasons Your Vehicle May Pull
There are three main reasons your vehicle may pull to one side.

Number One – And most common, you might have improper inflation in one or more of your tires.
Number Two – You might have severe, irregular or uneven wear on one or more of your tires, this is often caused by worn suspension parts, a lack of rotation, or an alignment issue.
Number Three – You might have a radial pull or “conical” pull caused during the tire’s construction.

Improper Inflation
Improper inflation, particularly on your vehicle’s front tires will certainly cause your vehicle to pull to one side. The wrong inflation on your rear tires, especially if your vehicle has a shorter wheel base, can also cause your vehicle to pull to one side. For instance, if one of your front tires has 35 pounds of air pressure and the other front tire has 28 pounds of pressure, your vehicle will pull toward the side with the smaller amount of air pressure. Not only is the tire with less pressure sitting just a bit lower than the other tire, but there is also more rubber contacting the ground with an under-inflated tire. More rubber contacting the ground causes the tire to grip the road even more causing your vehicle to pull in that direction.

Alignment Issues – Severe, Irregular or Uneven Tire Wear
Severe, irregular or uneven tire wear can cause a vehicle to pull to one side. If you have a newer tire with more tread on one side, particularly on the front of your vehicle, and an older tire with much less tread on the other side, the tire with the newer tread is going to grip the road better. Your vehicle will pull in that direction.

Tire Conicity and Radial Tire Pull
The third reason your vehicle may pull to one side could have been caused when the tire was built. This is called tire “conicity”, or sometimes, “radial tire pull”.
This is what this post is all about, the first two issues are easy to correct, where as tire conicity is much misunderstood.

Release the steering wheel and your vehicle pulls or veers (depending on servility) to one side. A front end problem, right, must be the alignment.
That pull is what most folks think of a wheel alignment problem. Surprisingly a tire can also cause your vehicle to pull. Tire “conicity” is a common phenomenon even in new tires.
Many people also call it a “radial pull” and sometimes a “tire pull.” You’ll see kinds of attempts to fix it, changing the air pressure in one tire only, shops that don’t understand issue trying to “fix it” with an alignment. None of that really works.

So, What Is “Tire Conicity”?
Tire conicity is where a properly inflated tire causes a vehicle to pull to the right or left when driven. Tires do not get conicity. They are manufactured them with the tendency. It is considered a defect and tire manufacturers cover tire conicity under their warranty, if we diagnose it properly and promptly.

Tire conicity or radial pull is usually different from a pull we feel with improper wheel alignment. A caster or camber related pull is normally constant, whatever the vehicle speed. This is because the misalignment does not change as the vehicle increases speed. When radial pull or tire conicity is the problem, the degree of the pull may increase with vehicle speed. It may be hardly noticeable at low speed and quite severe at 60 MPH or more.

Here’s An Example
You have a professional shop install a new set of tires on your vehicle and the wheel alignment is set. It is remarkable how well the vehicle now handles and drives. The driver can release the steering wheel and the vehicle tracks perfectly straight. The vehicle is a joy to drive. You smile, satisfied with your purchase.

Then it happens. After a few thousand miles it is time to rotate the new tires. After the tire rotation the vehicle now has a hard pull to the right. The pulling gets worse as we drive faster. What happened? Did the alignment suddenly go out? We perfectly inflate the tires, but the vehicle veers hard to the right when driving. A likely cause is tire conicity, a defect in a new tire.

A Proper Diagnosis Of Tire Conicity
Example – After a few thousand miles you have the tires rotated. Now the vehicle has a hard pull to the right that gets worse as you drive faster.
What happened; Did the alignment suddenly go out? As long as the tires are properly inflated, more likely is tire conicity, a defect in one of the new tires.
Diagnosis is straight forward; temporarily cross the suspected tire to the other side and see if the vehicle pulls the other way, or stops pulling.

We need no rocket science, because diagnosis of tire conicity is straight forward.
We first drive the vehicle to confirm the problem.
After test driving, we temporarily cross the suspected tire to the other side of the vehicle.
If the vehicle now pulls in the other direction, or stops pulling, it suggests tire conicity.
The tire on the side with the pull, is the normal cause.
To confirm the issue we rotate the suspected tire back to the rear.
If the vehicle again drives straight, we have found the problem tire.

Tire Conicity Is Different From Thread Separation
Tire conicity should not be confused with a separated, worn or damaged tire.
Though each of these problems can also cause a vehicle to pull, they are each separate issues.
Tire conicity or radial pull exists from the time we install the tire, because they build it into the tire when they manufactured it.

Why Does Conicity Occur?
Tire conicity results when tire belts are not perfectly aligned when the manufacturer builds the tire. Placing the layer of belting to one side creates the problem. Because more belting is on one side than the other, the tire surface inflates improperly. The side with less belting is not as strong as the other. Inflation pushes the tread out, more on the side with less belting. The result is a tire that inflates to a cone-shape, thus the name conicity.

When we roll a cone on a flat surface, it rolls in a circle toward the point of the cone. The same thing happens with a tire. This is why the vehicle pulls when the defective tire is placed on the front. When we place the tire on the rear, the effect is much less, but can also cause a pull if bad enough. We exaggerate the above illustrations for clarity. In reality we cannot see conicity with the eye.

When we install a new tire that has conicity on the front, the effect is obvious. It may go unnoticed when we originally install the tire having conicity on the rear. A driver may only notice the problem several thousand miles later, when they rotate the tire to the front and feel the pull.

Warranties – This Is What They Are For
The vehicle owner needs to notify the tire dealer in a prompt manner. Drivers require prompt action in reporting this condition to the tire company.
Tire manufacturers cover conicity under the new tire warranty, but quick notification is best. If you allow the tires to wear significantly, the wear may be [falsely] blamed for the pull and warranty may be much more difficult. Replacing the tire solves the problem.

Shops should not try to modify the wheel alignment to compensate for tire conicity.
The problem is the tire, not the alignment.
Changing the alignment will only result in the pull returning, when the tires are rotated once again.

Prevention
We suggest replacement only with quality name brands, Michelin, B.F. Goodrich, Pirelli, Continental.
These are the brands we use, with Michelin in particular being the brand we most often recommend for durability, handling and warranty.

Final
That’s our goal with each and every client car, fix it right the first time, and prevent problems from happening in the first place.
35 years of service experience have well taught us that “an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure.”
Be cured, once and for all, and give us a call, we’re happy to answer any service questions you might have on your Audi, BMW, Mini Cooper Mercedes, Lexus, Volvo or Volkswagen.

Earning your trust, every time you turn the key…that’s what we do…every day…for the last 30 years.
If you have questions, or if we can be of further assistance, just call us at (207) 882-969, we’d love to meet you, and your car!

Warmly,
Bruce and the AMC Service Team

Land Rover Discovery II – Ignition Lock Problems, And The Correct Solution

August 5, 2021

Case Studies

Atlantic Motorcar Center

The Problem
This Land Rover client presented us with a beautiful 2004 Discovery with an intermittent starting problem. We love Rovers, both old and new, and we also enjoy a good challenge!

On inspection, our Land Rover technician verified that the issue, and carried out a visual assessment. Then using the diagnostic computer we checked and scanned for codes, none were found, but did verify that the lock cylinder for the ignition had an excessive amount of wear.

The Proper Repair
The only true and permanent repair is to replace the ignition lock cylinder assembly with the housing, matching it to the client’s key sets, so the car does not have two different sets of keys. The challenge arises that the part seems to be nearly obsolete, and were quoted a “maybe” 5 week delivery time from the UK.

We were able to buy a new lock cylinder with a “generic” key set, and then disassemble, and rekey the lock cylinder to match and work with our client’s existing keys. When doing this, it is important to have both sets of keys, as wear may have occurred on one key, and if the cylinder is not coded to work with both sets of keys, the client may be locked out of the truck.

Knowing, not just “doing”, that’s the Atlantic Motorcar Center way.
Thanks!

Warmly,
The Atlantic Motorcar Center Service Team

Mini Cooper Clutch – When Good Flywheels And Pressure Plates Go Bad

August 3, 2021

Case Studies

Atlantic Motorcar Center

Background
Let’s talk Minis! As there is no Mini Cooper new car dealer in Maine, we’ve become the largest Mini service center in the state, aside from the routine day-to-day service, we also get to see some interesting Mini Cooper service challenges, like this one.

‘Da Clutch
Mini Coopers are wonderful cars, but like all cars, clutches do wear out with use and milage. What we’ve also seen is problems with excessive clutch pedal effort. The problem comes on rather slowly, is often not noticed by the driver, who becomes acclimated to it as he/she is using the clutch every day. Comparing your clutch pedal effort to another Mini is a good test, or stop by and ask us for a courtesy check. The key thing here is to catch this BEFORE it damages the engine flywheel, an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure.

This nice Mini came in with the concern of a clutch that could not be depressed enough to disengage. The first thing we noted was the high level of clutch effort, it was really hard to depress the clutch. We found the cause, which we’ve seen more than once, and not just on Mini Coopers, the pressure plate has failed, keeping the clutch partially depressed and allowing slippage. After extended slippage, the heat build-up can be great enough to damage the engine flywheel. Since the Mini uses a “dual mass” or two-part fluid-filled flywheel, this can be an expensive repair

Correction
Correction entailed replacement of the flywheel, replacement of the complete clutch assembly, as well as the hydraulic actuating cylinder. With failures of this nature, it is important to always service as a system and replace all related components. For example, a sticking actuating cylinder, which disengages the clutch, can cause a repeat of the failure.

Value
At Atlantic Motorcar, we’re all about providing our customers not only Great Service but also Value. We understand that “An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure.” (my mom, a nurse, would be proud I remembered that.), in other words, preventing, or catching problems like this early, can save you more than just money.

Knowing, not just “doing”, that’s the Atlantic Motorcar Center way.
Thanks!

Warmly,
The Atlantic Motorcar Center Service Team

An Ounce Of Prevention – Antifreeze and Coolant Service

July 6, 2021

Case Studies

Atlantic Motorcar Center

The Importance Of Antifreeze/Coolant Service
Take a look at these photos, notice the brown areas of clogging and material at the bottom of the radiator? Nowhere is this more frequent than on engines using an aluminum cylinder head, and cast iron block…like most modern cars.

And we also find this clogging not just in radiators, but also in heater cores. A heater core is a radiator-like device used in heating the cabin of a vehicle. Hot coolant from the vehicle’s engine is passed through a winding tube of the core.
Fins attached to the core tubes serve to increase surface for heat transfer to air that is forced past them, by a fan, thereby heating the passenger compartment. A clogged heater core will provide low or no heat when needed in cold weather.

Not Just Audi
We should mention that this is not just an Audi problem, we find in BMW, Mercedes, Land Rover, Mini Cooper, Volvo, as well as in Japanese autos. The good news is that you can prevent this, before it happens, before your car overheats, before the breakdown, tow in, and possible engine damage. We have more information about the problem below, the cause and then correction, so read on.

The Problem
The engine radiator is used to remove the heat from the engine. Hot coolant from the vehicle’s engine is passed through a winding tube of the core. Fins attached to the core tubes serve to increase surface for heat transfer to surface air that is forced past them, by a fan, thereby taking heat away from off the engine coolant.

Clogging of the tubes may occur if the coolant system is not flushed or if the coolant is not changed regularly. If clogging occurs the radiator will not work properly. If coolant flow is restricted, heat exchange capacity will be reduced or even lost altogether if the radiator core becomes blocked. You can see from the the photos this core was fully 1/3 blocked, doesn’t make for good cooling, leading to engine running hot, overheating, and possible engine damage or failure.

Why It Happens
From an Audi Technical Service Bulletin – Excess flux from the aluminum cooling system components contaminates the cooling system. This over time causes a high acidic concentration in the coolant. The result is oxide particles (aluminum rust) and excess flux restricting the engine radiator and heater core.

Electrolysis – Another failure mode, somewhat associated with the above, is dirty coolant is known as electrolysis. Electrolysis occurs when stray electrical current routes itself through the engine coolant.

The electricity is attempting to find the shortest path, and impurities in the coolant often generate a path of least resistance that the electricity travels across. In particular, electrolysis affects primarily aluminum engine components, resulting in pitting and scarring of the aluminum surface. This eating away of the metal can cause coolant system leaks, and in particular, radiator leaks around aluminum welds. While cast-iron components are also vulnerable, typically the aluminum metal parts fail first. So change that coolant!

Prevention
Sounds simple, right? Yet one of the most neglected task on many newer cars is the maintenance of the cooling system. Today’s high tech cars often come with so-called “lifetime” coolant, promising extremely extended coolant intervals. The problem is, these intervals come at a cost, expensive engine damage down the road. In general, it’s recommended that you flush and clean out your cooling system once every 36 months, or approximately every three years.

The best way to protect your engine, and ultimately, your wallet or pocketbook, is to make certain your car’s coolant is flushed at least every 3 years, shorter if it is a vehicle that sits for an extended time. Fall time is ideal to ask your service facility about your vehicle’s coolant. Our goal is always to prevent, rather than just repair problems.

Value
At Atlantic Motorcar, we’re all about providing our customers not only Great Service but also Value. We understand that “An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure.” (my mom, a nurse, would be proud I remembered that.), in other words, preventing, or catching problems like this early, can save you more than just money.

Knowing, not just “doing”, that’s the Atlantic Motorcar Center way.
Thanks!

Warmly,
The Atlantic Motorcar Center Service Team

Car Batteries – Facts About Lead Acid Or AGM Types

June 21, 2021

Case Studies

Atlantic Motorcar Center

Why AGM Batteries?
Absorbent Glass Mat batteries (AGM) have been a market favorite for the past decade for reasons of capacity and durability. These batteries are becoming much more common in European and imported autos like Audi, BMW, Mercedes, Mini Cooper, Volvo.

How They Work
In principle, the AGM batteries work like any other lead battery. However, the AGM batteries, compared to flooded batteries, have several significant improvements that make them more efficient. Additionally, just like other types of batteries in the market, they have their advantages and disadvantages.

Choose The Right Type
The right battery for your car will give good service from 3 to 5 years, maybe longer if well cared for. The #1 reason for battery failure after battery replacement, is the use of the incorrect battery type. Most late model cars are very dependent on a stable and properly operating electrical system, generic battery replacements, jump starting, or even weak batteries can wreak all kinds of havoc with your auto. If you car came with a AGM battery, it must be replaced with the same for reliability, and durability. Switching from the AGM battery types trying to save money will only cost more in the end, with damaged electronics, short battery life, dead batteries, no starts, and towing. Don’t take the chance.

Be Sure To Program If Needed
For some cars, like BMW and Mini Cooper, the other reason for battery failure after battery replacement, other than the use of the incorrect battery type, is the failure to properly program the car, these cars require the engine computer, known as a DME (Digital Motor Electronics) must be programed to know a new battery has been installed.

Otherwise the battery can under or overcharge, and cause premature battery failure. Older batteries become sulfated with time and require a higher charging rate. So unless the DME is notified a new battery is installed, it will often overcharge, and damage the new battery in short order.

Advantages of the AGM Battery
1. They are spill proof – Unlike the traditional lead-acid batteries that freely flood their electrodes, AGM batteries have glass mats that prevent this. Additionally, it is the function of these glass mats to avoid spillage. Rather than absorbing the electrolyte, the glass mats work by holding the electrolyte in place, preventing it from spilling over, even when the battery is placed in odd positions.

2. They have a high-power output – Because of the way that they are designed, the AGM batteries have minimal internal resistance. This, therefore, enables them to provide sufficient bursts of power when necessary, such as when one needs to start a battery. Due to this feature, these batteries respond better to loading than any other battery on the market.

3. They have a short charging time – AGM batteries, compared to flooded batteries, charge quickly. When compared to flooded batteries of a similar capacity, the charging rate can reach five times faster with the same power source.

4. They have a longer lifespan – AGM batteries have a longer lifespan than traditional flooded batteries. Moreover, not only do they serve for a more extended period when they perform the same tasks, but they also last longer when they are not in active use. This is because self-discharging is minimized in these batteries, unlike other types of batteries, which is a huge problem. This ensures that one does not have to keep charging them after an extended period of inactivity.

5. They are durable – These AGM batteries were originally designed to serve the aircraft industry. This means that they have a sturdy design, one that can handle conditions of intense vibrations, just like those in military and commercial aircraft. Because of this property, they are a favorite for high-end motorcycle riders and race car drivers. The sandwich construction method adopted in their design ensures that their internal components do not fall apart. Moreover, they are invulnerable to the subsequent wear and tear that may result from frequent and continuous vibrations. Furthermore, they can withstand extreme temperature variations.

6. They are unlikely to build up sulfation – Sulfation is the property of lead-acid batteries, where there is a gradual accumulation of lead sulfate crystals in the cells. In most cases, it is the cause of failure in lead-acid batteries. Sulfation mostly occurs when the battery is not fully charged, and thus the crystals continuously build up on the plates. When this process goes out of hand, it prevents the efficient conversion of chemical to electrical energy. Therefore, for other types of lead-acid batteries, it is essential to charge them every six months to prevent sulfation. However, in AGM batteries, sulfation is significantly reduced. Therefore, they can be stored for extended periods without needing a recharge.

Have Questions?
For more information on AGM batteries and other types of batteries, please call one of our Service Advisors, they can offer valuable information on various types of batteries and which battery works for you.

Value
At Atlantic Motorcar, we’re all about providing our customers not only Great Service but also Value. We understand that “An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure.” (my mom would be proud I remembered that.), in other words, preventing, or catching problems like these brake lines early, can save you more than just money.

Finally
Questions, or if we can be of help in any way with service on your Audi, BMW, Mercedes, Mini Cooper or other European (and now Japanese) import, please contact us. Our team of Service Specialists is here to help, for even the newest autos! (207) 882-9969.

Knowing, not just “doing”, that’s the Atlantic Motorcar Center way.
Thanks!

Warmly,
The Atlantic Motorcar Center Service Team

Land Rover Evoque – Engine Problem With Timing Chain Sprocket

January 8, 2021

Case Studies

Atlantic Motorcar Center

The Problem
This Land Rover client presented us with a 2015 Evoque with a Check Engine Light (CEL) on, and noise from the engine.

On inspection, our Land Rover technician verified that the CEL on, and carried out a visual assessment. Then using the diagnostic computer we checked and scanned for codes. We found the following fault codes, P052A – Cold start camshaft timing over advanced bank 1, P0011 – Intake camshaft position timing over advanced bank 1, P0341 – Camshaft position sensor A circuit/range performance bank 1.

Fault codes are only a starting point, we never use them for component replacement without additional testing and inspection. We also use the codes in conjunction with factory service bulletins, and a large database of common pattern failures…35 years of experience is pretty helpful too. 😉

What We Found
When these faults occur, the first step is always check the solenoid valve value and resistance, then to measure the VVT adjustment angle. Finding these out of spec, we always start with a quote to replace the VVT, and camshaft sensor while apart, followed by an inspection when the VVT solenoid device is carried out.

Following the test plan, our technician then removed the engine cover and found an excessive oil leak, and that the plastic valve cover was cracked. This is a very significant finding, much indicative of an internal engine failure. As it was very possible something has broken in the engine timing system, he next removed the camshaft cover and external engine components and found a failure of the camshaft retaining pin.

How It Works
Like many newer cars, Land Rover uses a system called “Variable Valve Timing” (VVT) in which the engine valve timing is controlled dynamically via engine oil pressure and electric solenoid valves. The aim is to improve volumetric efficiency, decrease NOx emissions, and decrease pumping losses. Today, there are two major types of variable valve timing: cam phasing and cam changing. With cam changing, the ECU selects a different cam profile based on engine load and speed, whereas, with cam phasing, an actuator rotates the camshaft, changing the phase angle.

There are dozens of ways to go about varying valve timing, lift, and duration control, Land Rover uses the solenoid valve method, controlled by the engine computer. These valves allow the oil to flow into a VVT gear on the end of each camshaft, allowing the engine timing to be varied to provide better performance and fuel economy. The system, provided that the engine oil is kept clean and full, is generally very trouble-free.

How It Fails
Because the cam sprocket needs to move for the VVT system to work, it must have a mechanical stop, so it does not over-rotate, and for retention. It is this stop, pin, or keeper that fails, and creates the problem that we found. So with that in mind, the most common cause of the Land Rover VVT or VCT sprocket failure is the failure of the retaining pin on the intake camshaft, what Land Rover calls the “VCT Stopper”. Often caused by a stuck or defective camshaft control solenoid, that allows the VVT sprocket to “bounce” with low or inconstant oil pressure.

Land Rover’s exact phrase for the problem is “This may be caused by the ‘stopper’ in the intake camshaft Variable Cam Timing (VCT) actuator becoming detached, leading to the VCT actuator not functioning.” Which is a polite way of saying something really bad just happened.

Usually, the Land Rover VVT or VCT sprocket failure comes on as the vehicle gets on in miles, our experience, and industry reports seem to typically indicate at 60,000 to 80,000 miles. Often caused by a stuck or defective camshaft control solenoid, that allows the VVT sprocket to “bounce” with low or inconstant oil pressure. This may also be caused to be some weakness in design or manufacturing, resistance from advancing and retarding camshaft position becomes too much, causing the weakest part, the pin to break.

The Proper Repair
The only true and permanent repair in the event of a damaged VVT sprocket is to replace the intake VCT sprocket, timing chain, and all guides with the newer, and an updated design, while properly cleaning and servicing the cylinder head. Any “repairs” are usually very short-lasting and risk having failed parts fall into your engine, or worse, a catastrophic engine failure, resulting in very expensive engine damage and quite possibly ruining your engine. It’s just not worth the risk, do it right the first time, and it’s good to go.